Ron---Many of us have gone thru this. It looks like you have covered all
of the 'usual' parts that can cause this clutch disengagement problem.
I'll suggest one that's more un-usual, but has been reported to the list
by at least two owners. That being, the tapered hole bored into the
clutch cross shaft being placed at the wrong angle. (This is a machining
setup goof, not an installation problem). If this is true, the fork will
not project far enough forward, and the T/O bearing will not allow the
clutch to separate from the flywheel.
Comparing yours to other used? cross shafts might bring this difference
to light.
Another tip here is that the three-holed arm should be in a near
verticle position when the clutch is engaged.
Dick
From: rgh@vvm.com(ron)
Let me beat a dead Horse!!! We have two instances of TR6 clutches
releasing about 1/4" off the floor and not releasing enough to allow us
to shift into 1st and we get grinding going into reverse.
On both cars we get approximately 5/8" travel on the clutch arm. my car
has new master, slave, clutch, TO bearing, good nylon clutch hose, new
fork pin and fork, and I checked the crank end play to make sure it was
in spec.
Still having problems!! Has anyone figured out this problem?
Thanks,
Ron Harrison
74 TR6, 62 TR3B
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