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RE: She runs, but idles high

To: <Aledotr6@aol.com>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: She runs, but idles high
From: "Gary R." <techpartners@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 07:47:53 -0500
Bud -

Your rear carb float bowl intake jet is stuck. You can try blowing carb
cleaner into the point where the fuel line hooks in but chances are the
float bowl has to come off and you can clean or replace it. I put gross jets
in mine and never had the problem again, but that was after both carbs
messed up a couple times after sitting a long time. Fix the carbs, then, if
the idle screws are out and it still is high its most likely timing. I
forget where it is w/o the vacuum hooked up but its 4 degrees ATDC at
850-900 RPM with it on..

Good luck!
Gary R.

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Aledotr6@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 6:28 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: She runs, but idles high

I tried to start the new TR6 engine last night and it started right up!
After 
three years, it was nice to hear it again. It was idling high at about 2000 
rpm. Turned the choke off and the RPM dropped to about 1800 rpm. I checked
the 
timing and it looked to be about right, 24 BTDC. Since the rpm needed to be 
that high anyway for initial startup, I left if alone and just started
checking 
everything else. No big problems, other than the temp gauge never moved 
(figured that out later). Finally, after about twenty-five minutes, I
noticed gas 
shooting out of the rear carb bowl vent, which I didn't have hooked up to
the 
canister. I shut it down at that point.

Any Ideas on what might have caused that?  I'm not sure if it had been doing

that all along or if it had just started. I don't think the engine
overheated 
and boiled out the gas. I had the radiator cap off to add more coolant if 
needed and it didn't seem to get overly hot, but then again, the temp gauge
wasn't 
working. 

Also, where do I start trying the get the idle down? This is how all the 
vacuum lines and valves are hooked up right now. The by-pass valve
adjustments are 
screwed out as far as they would go. I THINK that is supposed to basically 
turn them off.  I had the retard disconnected and the port plugged. The
brake 
booster, EGR input valve and anti-run on triple outlet port was plugged. I
EGR 
inlet port was plugged. The crank case breather ports are connected to the 
crank case and canister. The carb bowl vent/anti run-on port is not hooked
up. 
That's why I noticed the gas.

With the retard disconnected, how low of an idle can you get? Can it be 
adjusted down to around 850 without it. If so, I need to lose about 1,000. 

Thanks,

Bud Trussell
75 TR6




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