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She runs, but idles high

To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: She runs, but idles high
From: Aledotr6@aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 06:28:11 EST
I tried to start the new TR6 engine last night and it started right up! After 
three years, it was nice to hear it again. It was idling high at about 2000 
rpm. Turned the choke off and the RPM dropped to about 1800 rpm. I checked the 
timing and it looked to be about right, 24 BTDC. Since the rpm needed to be 
that high anyway for initial startup, I left if alone and just started checking 
everything else. No big problems, other than the temp gauge never moved 
(figured that out later). Finally, after about twenty-five minutes, I noticed 
gas 
shooting out of the rear carb bowl vent, which I didn't have hooked up to the 
canister. I shut it down at that point.

Any Ideas on what might have caused that?  I'm not sure if it had been doing 
that all along or if it had just started. I don't think the engine overheated 
and boiled out the gas. I had the radiator cap off to add more coolant if 
needed and it didn't seem to get overly hot, but then again, the temp gauge 
wasn't 
working. 

Also, where do I start trying the get the idle down? This is how all the 
vacuum lines and valves are hooked up right now. The by-pass valve adjustments 
are 
screwed out as far as they would go. I THINK that is supposed to basically 
turn them off.  I had the retard disconnected and the port plugged. The brake 
booster, EGR input valve and anti-run on triple outlet port was plugged. I EGR 
inlet port was plugged. The crank case breather ports are connected to the 
crank case and canister. The carb bowl vent/anti run-on port is not hooked up. 
That's why I noticed the gas.

With the retard disconnected, how low of an idle can you get? Can it be 
adjusted down to around 850 without it. If so, I need to lose about 1,000. 

Thanks,

Bud Trussell
75 TR6




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