On Fri, 21 Feb 2003 webb@daikin-america.com wrote:
> 1. Regarding leaks from the differential, can you replace the pinion seal
> without disturbing the pinion? Bentley makes it sound easy but it looks
> like removing the flange will disrupt the pinion preload.
The answer to this question depends on the year of the car. Early style
diffs used shims to set bearing preload. On these units, you can remove
the pinion flange and replace the seal without losing the preload.
On the later cars, a collapsible spacer is used to atain bearing pre-load.
With these units, you can mess up the preload when you re-torque the
pinio flange nut.
> 2. The differential rear cover gasket I got from Moss is paper thin - do I
> need to coat both sides with sealant to prevent (OK, quit laughing, to
> minimize) leaks?
Do one side. Use a non-hardening gasket compound like Hylomar or
Form-a-Gasket... You don't really need that much unless you've boogered up
the sealing surface.
> 3. I am replacing the intake/exhaust manifold gasket. A member of my club
> coated both sides of his gasket with an "aircraft grade" liquid sealant. I
> will be installing Moss's heavy duty gasket - do these gaskets work well
> without sealant? I would like to avoid using the sealant if possible.
DO NOT USE SEALANT HERE. You should not need any. Besides, there are at
least two material types here (aluminium and cast iron) which have
different cooefficients of expansion. If you try "glueing them", the
gasket will fail.
The heavy duty gaskets seal very well and don't seem to blow out like the
old metal/sandwich ones did (when they dried out). If you have selaing
problems with the new-style heavy duty gaskets, try using two gaskets. It
works!
> Thanks in advance!!
> Pat
> '74 TR6
regards,
rml
74 TR6
73 TR6
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