I had a very similar thing happen to my '74. I rebuilt the carbs and replaced
the plugs, points, and ignition wires. As I was tuning it up and adjusting the
carbs, I had to adjust the needles to a really rich setting to get it to idle
where I wanted it.
The car ran great -- for a while -- it then started sputtering, was hard to
start, and, once warm, would idle very roughly. It turned out the plugs were
fouled. I've since learned that to get the idle and mixture right, I needed to
plug the vacuum lines at the back of the carbs -- the DPO had removed all of
the emissions stuff and not plugged or vented anything correctly.
Dwayne
'74
-----Original Message-----
From: Lumia, John [mailto:jlumia@ball.com]
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 8:51 AM
To: mbullard@hawaii.rr.com; 6pack; triumphs
Subject: RE: She no run
Mark, if you have a spark on all six wires (inductive timing light works
great here), then I would check that fuel is getting to the carbs and
that the floats arent stuck. This means making sure there is no crud in
the float valves. Starting ether may be a quick way to rule out stuck
float valves. I would also try looking for major vacuum leaks
somewhere, like the brake booster, the diverter valve (found only on 75
and 76 models I think), the anti-run-on valve, vacuum lines going to EGR
and distributor, etc. Also, did your guy check the timing correctly?
Needs to be 4 deg ATDC with vacuum hose connected, or 10 deg BTDC with
hose disconnected and plugged. You can also use the static timing
method if the car is not running (also 10 deg BTDC). If you have a
vacuum leak at the dizzy, then plug the line and go with the 10 deg
number until you get a replacement vacuum unit.
Good luck
John Lumia - 1976 TR6
Mark wrote:>
Done. pumping out like ol faithful.
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