i don't have any pix to offer but this is a common malady
afflicting TR6's. you do not have to replace your crossmember
as this is an easy 2-part repair.
first, you need to have the top of the crossmember (where
the cracks are evident) repaired by welding a large steel disk
(large, heavy washer) over the area where the post connects to
the frame. clean up and seal the cracks and then weld the washer
in place.
second, you need to box in the underside of the crossmember
where the mounting pin comes thru a metal bridge. when i say
"box in", i mean completely box in the underside of the crossmember by
closing in the sides of the span of metal that
intersects the pin.
trf sells some pre-cut pieces of steel that will fit under the
crossmember to accomplish the boxing in. you can also visit a machine shop
and give them the measurements. you'll weld these into place also. i used
some large, steel washers i had laying around for the top of the
crossmember.
hope this helps....
Tom Di Iulio
1976 TR6
Denver, Co
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald A. Dowty" <rdowty@dowtyenterprises.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 5:06 PM
Subject: Cracked differential mounts
> I finally got around to removing the broken differential mount on my
> chassis and noticed the area around place where the stud is welded to
> the crossmember is cracked. Is this something that can (or should) be
> repaired by using the reenforcements sold by TRF or should I be looking
> for a new crossmember?
>
> Does any body have any links to sites where pictures of this type of
> repair are documented?
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