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Re: Clutch travel

To: ms6453@optonline.net (Mitchel Seff)
Subject: Re: Clutch travel
From: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 23:12:41 -0700 (PDT)
Mitch---You have given some of the signs, and methinks you do have a
broken fork pin bolt. You would have to unscrew it from the fork to be
sure, as they can be broken and only flex under clutch operating
pressures. 
A couple things to check, to get better life from these pins..Be sure
there are NO nicks or machining marks on the tapered body. Any such mark
can be a stress riser...If the tapered bore for the fork pin  is worn
much at the larger end, there won't be a good match with the pin. Check
by using Dykem Blue ink (or a marking pen) on both bore and pin. Insert
the pin fully and see where the ink scrapes off. 

When using a (backup) "second bolt", it should fit as snug as possible
so that it shares the load, and not just take over, should the tapered
pin snap.  Though I installed a 1/4"X2" socket head cap screw, I'm
favoring the idea of using a 1/4" or 5/16" roll pin. as these should
always stay tight.

Measure the OD of the front cover, compared to the ID of the carrier
sleeve. There shouldn't be more than .008 difference. (I like less)
Chamfer the trailing edge of the sleeve while it's out, for the
smoothest possible clutch engagement. And you know I like a moly-based
grease between these parts.

Dick

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