On stock fly, the MAX, ( SAFE ) material to be re moved is right about 7
lb's, from a 26 lb wheel, NO MORE ! !!
The 12 lb, you speak of is of a Billet cut....
Something to think of as you build this improved machine is how far you will
be bringing your RRRRRs to.
Because with all the ways to build, and they all depend on money to throw to
the wind, or your passion for, the need for speed.
Truthfully if I had two TRs I would build them completely different, so
don't take it hard if I dig into someone's love.
Ok..... for ALL internal ROTATING part's to be.... LIGHTEN .... BALANCED ...
and HARDEN in some case's.
I have a cam that come's on at 3000, that is ok for a hot street car, but
for a TR6 roadster / fun touring car, in my opinion it should start to come
on at 24 or 2500, and be full on by 2800.
OK... one BIG TIME TIP on the wheel,,,,,,,, is to remember where it is....
in relation to your feet, and how much cardboard is in between them, I sure
love to drive, but I would really miss walking on two feet.
These were cast, so be sure there are NO internal perfection's...
This mean's X ray.... OR Billet
----- Original Message -----
From: "mitch" <tristatelining@isoc.net>
To: "6pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2001 9:32 PM
Subject: Lightened flywheels
> Thinking of putting an aluminum flywheel on my car when i have the engine
> hopped up soon. Anyone have any experience doing this on a TR6? If so
what
> weight was it? I've seen them as light as 12 pounds. Is this a bad idea
for
> everyday use? Or a good bolt on item?
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