It has been my experience that you cannot bleed the TR6 clutch slave cylinder
by drawing fluid from the bleed nipple. The seals aren't strong enough to hold
out the air. The vacuum will draw bubbles right past the seal before drawing
new fluid from the clutch master cylinder. The best way to bleed the clutch is
with pressure from the master cylinder by using an adapter on the master
cylinder (if you can find the parts) or by simply pumping the peddle.
Instead of 'classic' bleeding, I like to flush my hydraulic systems. Brake
fluid should look like apple juice not coffee. (you should be careful of
stroking the peddle too much farther than normal, old system's bore's are
usually rough outside of the normal use area and can damage seals. It's never
happened to me but I've heard it's likely)
Ed McGuirk
76 TR6
86 Rx7
88 MR2 Supercharged
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Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 19:47:01 -0700
From: "Ryan Van Luchene" <2000man@eudoramail.com>
Subject: clutch questions
Today I tried to bleed the clutch following the instructions in the Bentley
manual. After about 15 pumps of the pedal, I was still getting air bubbles in
the Mityvac container. Then, my friend who was operating the pedal for me, said
the pedal went totally soft. Somehow, a bunch of air got into the system, and
now I can't get it out. I've repeated the Bentley procedure a few more times
and nothing is improving.
Should I buy a vacuum system for my Mityvac now, or is there a way I can get
the air out with just the basic "container and hoses" kit? Any other
suggestions would be appreciated.
I've also found that my clutch pedal clevis pin bore is producing way too much
slack in the linkage. Since new pedals are not available, and I figure most
used ones probably have some wear in them, I might have someone repair it by
welding. If anyone has done this to their TR, could you let me know how it was
done? I don't know if I should fill in the bore w/metal & redrill, or weld 2
metal plates on either side of the bore and redrill?
Ryan
'71
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