Hi Dick and all,
this is excellent information. I have the original 175CDs. Is there a
resource you can recommend for the basic care and feeding of these beasts?
Starting from a total novice level (e.g. I just found out I need to watch
the oil level under the cap), I would like to learn everything I can about
maintenance, adjustment, rebuilding, etc.
I see there's a Haynes manual available. Is that my best bet, or maybe you
have a better recommendation.
Thanks!
Mark Creamer
76 TR6
CF53032UO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor@webtv.net>
To: <TomRJade@aol.com>
Cc: <6pack-digest@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 3:50 AM
Subject: Re: Running Rich
> Tom----I'll take a shot at what could be at least part of the answer to
> your "running rich." Pull up a chair, as it sounds like you're
> serious...To start more from the bottom part of your message and working
> up, I would say that your engine just coming out of "rebuild" is the
> best time to get it right. You don't want what seems be extra fuel
> washing down new cylinder walls, or even new rings, which could delay a
> proper break-in of these parts.
>
> While your spark plugs may be new, the fact that they are black AND you
> have an intermittant misfire, suggests that they should be replaced, or
> at least cleaned. Go with the Champion N-12YC, or its equivalent heat
> range. You'll want to keep an eye on these if you decide to do what I'm
> about to recommend, to follow the "color."
>
> You said you had the S.U. carbs on your '74. These are sort of like the
> original ZS, but their adjustments are different. The ZS, as you may
> know, can be set rich or lean by adjusting the height of the needle, in
> relation to the jet. The SU has a fixed needle (sort of) and the mixture
> adjustment is made by raising or lowering the jet, by using the nut
> underneath the carb body. It's not hard to do so let's go thru it,
> starting with the setting of the floats in each carb.
> Take the screws from the top of the float bowl, lift off the lid,
> turn it upside-down and set the height of each float at 3/16". Do both
> the same way. Put the "lids" back on. You're thru here.
> Take the four screws from the top of suction chamber and lift off
> this aluminum bell-shaped piece. Lift out the spring and the piston,
> needle attached. Easy does it, as parts here are somewhat sensitive to
> any abuse. The needle has no external height adjustment, but their is a
> desired location for it. Loosen the set screw that holds it in place and
> pull the needle down (out) far enough to be sure that the groove that
> goes around the needle is flush with the bottom of the piston that holds
> it. (If it was up too high inside the piston, this will cause richness.
> Likewise it could be set too low, so just make the groove disappear, and
> then tighten the set screw.) Do this to both carbs. You're thru here,
> but do not put the tops back on the carbs yet.
> The adjustable fuel mixture for these carbs come from rising or
> lowering of the jet. Since the top(s) is off of the carb, look down
> inside and you'll see the top of the jet. It's brass, and round it is
> the aluminum bridge of the carburetor. The big nut underneath the carb
> body sets the jet height. Turn the nut up (about two full turns) till
> this circular jet is even with, or close to the top of the bridge. Then
> turn this nut down two full turns, or approx. 12 "flats." Now you can
> put the top of the carbs back on. All of the above settings, from the
> float heights to the needle and jet locations should get your engine
> running very close to where you want it. Further adjustments to the
> mixture will be from raising or lowering the jet according to which way
> makes the engine run smoother, or gain idling speed. It should not be
> more than one-half turn in either direction! A vacuum gauge would be
> helpful here, to get the highest reading off the intake manifold.
>
> I know this was a long proceedure to grasp, but if you take it in steps,
> you'll get the results you're looking for. A manual on the SU
> carburetor is always nice to have, since your engine is now equiped with
> them!
>
> If any of this needs clarification, you can write me directly.
>
> Dick Taylor
>
> '73
>
>
>
>
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