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[Fwd: accelerator pedal bushing]

To: 6 Pack List <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fwd: accelerator pedal bushing]
From: Chris Young <pzs83j@ndc.gmeds.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 19:17:20 -0400
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sorry, I sent this message to Tim a few day's ago, noticed that I sent
it to the wrong destination!!

Hope it's still relevant!!

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Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 13:49:30 -0400
From: Chris Young <pzs83j@ndc.gmeds.com>
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To: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: accelerator pedal bushing
References: <20000727170632.21994.qmail@web4601.mail.yahoo.com>

Timothy Holbrook wrote:

> If your engine and tranny are out of the car, it's probably easier to
> install the bushings from the engine compartment, with you standing
> where the engine usually is.  If the engine is there, however, you'd
> probably be better off doing the job from the interior.
>
> Tim Holbrook
> 1971 TR6
>
> --- "Sullivan, John, G (John)" <sullij@ATT.COM> wrote:
> > I know that the list has covered the accelerator pedal bushing;
> > however, do
> > most people insert the bushing from the interior or from the engine
> > compartment. The manual implies the interior, the diagrams I have
> > imply the
> > engine compartment.
> >
> > I tried getting my wife to help last night. Perhaps, the first time
> > she got
> > greasy. I didn't win any points because I almost burned her fingers
> > off.
> >
> > I'm going to give it another try this weekend.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
> http://mail.yahoo.com/

I just put shaft bushings in my car and it was a relatively painless
operation.  Thanks to the list I gathered enouph information to compare
and decide the best way to go about the process.  Basically, I installed
the bushings from the exterior, I had the motor and all in place and had
just painted the area around the holes.  First I heated the bushing by
boiling them for a few moments to "soften" them up..And I say that with
reserve since they really were not that soft.... Then I cut the bushing
at a 45 degree angle to it's center...That is, by the way ONE cut. It's
still in one piece but know you are able to twist it.  Now take the
still warm bushing and start one of the ends, which of course is grooved
and start it into the hole. The channel of the bushing will follow the
metal thickness of the hole.  Now you may need the assistance of a flat
blade screwdriver to help move the bushing along. This is where it gets
tricky since you have a chance of slipping and scratching the paint...in
this area you will have to be the judge on how to use the tool. You will
notice then that the last bit of the bushing will not go in and will
stick out because it has coiled into a smaller inner diameter. At this
point take a fairly large flat blade screw driver with a 3/8 to 1/2
blade (at it's widest point)  and work it into the hole and turn the
blade the direction of the bushing "poke out".  This is basically
spreading the inner dia. tof the bushing and forcing it back out to mate
with the dia. of the hole your inserting it into. I lubricated the hole
first with lithium grease and I was done in no less than 15 minutes.  I
rotated the slit to point down so the shaft would cover the it.  This is
your choice.  The material used is hard enouph that I think worries of
the bushing falling out because of the slit is a non issue.  Take a look
at you bushing and you'll see what I mean!
Hope this helps!

Chris Young
74TR6
76TVR
94BMW
93Ducati


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