Chris,
As you know, I've got the identical setup on my car (except I've got
1.65 roller rockers). I don't think you could get the car to run lean
enough to get the header glowing. It may be possible that you've got
the thing running way too rich, and are sending raw fuel into the
header whereupon it is burning and heating the header up. I've got my
triple stromberg needles set at the lean end, I think two full turns
away from full lean. This allows it to run right at most rpm's, but it
runs rich as hell at idle (need to experiment with different needles to
get this right). I'm using stock TR6 needles, which I assume is what
you are doing too. Check the cam timing very carefully, as you stated,
this could be the source of your troubles. When I put my cam in and
timed it, Good's instructions said you could retard the cam timing a
few degrees (I think he said 4 degrees retarded) in order to get more
low end power. I did this. Make sure you are using a dial indicator
and good crankshaft degree wheel to find and mark TDC, then use the
dial indicator to measure the cam lift. No messing around with rulers,
a dial indicator is a must!!
The following is how I'm set up now, and the car runs great except for
rich idle: Set ignition timing at 10 degrees BTDC static, and don't use
any vacuum advance or retard. Block off all vacuum orifices on the
carbs, and block of the breather hose connections on the carbs. Run
the breather hose from the rocker cover directly to the carbon
canister, nowhere else.
Did your water temp gauge indicate very hot, or just the glowing header
pipe? Which happened first-hot temp gauge or glowing header pipe?
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- Chris Young <pzs83j@ndc.gmeds.com> wrote:
> > Lister's,
>
> Well I have a problem which by the time this is received I will have
> resolved....Ijust put together my TR with a Goodparts head, cam,
> triple
> Stromberg setup, header etc. Finally yesterday, I fired it up and it
> did
> start and proceeded to get hot within about 15 to 20 minutes or so!
> So hot
> that no 5 cylinder exhaust tube was starting to glow red! Naturally
> I shut
> it down. It was running very lean so I checked the carbs, redid the
> float
> level...checked fuel pressure (an electric pump,) The radiator is
> new
> recore and I have an electric fan. It dawned on me though I may not
> have
> indexed the cam properly! So I'm pulling the timing cover off and
> checking
> it. I'll bet I did something wrong since I had to keep leaving the
> job in
> various stages. The explanation I came to was that since the cam is
> out of
> sync with the crank and the valves are not doing there job at the
> right
> time during the firing phase, in this case way too advanced. I'm
> going
> back and checking the timing marks as per original (the marks on the
> cam
> and crank gears)and go from there. It's entirely possible I screwed
> it
> up. Of course not enouph that it wouldn't start! In case the
> questions
> arise the carbs are set at .720in height(17.64mm) originally they
> were at
> 16mm. The mixture was almost all the way set rich during process of
> figuring out what was wrong. As stated electric fuel pump, the
> valves were
> set to Goods specs. The plugs read slightly black not white.. The
> exhaust
> was pretty "dry" meaning little carbon deposits...All leaning towards
> lean.....The only thing I could see is it's too far advanced...So
> back to
> the basics. Any other idea's? As I noted before I'm tearing into it
> again
> later today, so wish me luck that I find the marks way off. at least
> if I
> do then it's a pretty good bet that was the the problem...
>
> Regards.
> Chris Young
>
> 74'TR6
> 76'TVR
> 94'BMW
> 93'Ducati
>
>
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