We're going to install onyx tile in our entryway - not much over 100 square feet. The floor is a concrete slab, but I have to build up the level by over 1-1/2" to match the adjacent hardwood. I plann
I wouldn't use nails; use screws made for the job. You'll need to pre-drill, and use an impact drill to set them. I can't remember the name of them now. They're blue, and come in a hex head and flush
Not advice, per se, but thoughts... I'd use a hard backerboard, and I'd put the thinset down. Your goal should be to make a surface that doesn't flex; so you need the gap-filling of the thinset to ma
Tapcons. If I were the original poster, I would take some pictures of the current floor, and go to johnbridge.com, and ask on the forum there. No offense to the august list, but where tiling is conce
The green board is moisture-resistant sheetrock. The cement backer boards are usually a gray color (from the cement). You don't want the green stuff for a floor application. I would pick the thickest
100 square feet. The floor is a concrete slab, but I Karl, Would this work? If so it should save you a ton of money and a lot of work work. Use just enough floor leveler to make sure the slab is smoo
Not trying to start a flame war here......We've got a bout an inch and a half difference between the original hard wood in our dining room (110 year old craftsman) and the multiple layers (elcheapo k
We're going to install onyx tile in our entryway - not much over 100 square feet. The floor is a concrete slab, but I have to build up the level by over 1-1/2" to match the adjacent hardwood. I plann
I wouldn't use nails; use screws made for the job. You'll need to pre-drill, and use an impact drill to set them. I can't remember the name of them now. They're blue, and come in a hex head and flush
Not advice, per se, but thoughts... I'd use a hard backerboard, and I'd put the thinset down. Your goal should be to make a surface that doesn't flex; so you need the gap-filling of the thinset to ma
Author: hillman at planet-torque.com (David Hillman)
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 23:13:40 -0400 (EDT)
Tapcons. If I were the original poster, I would take some pictures of the current floor, and go to johnbridge.com, and ask on the forum there. No offense to the august list, but where tiling is conce
The green board is moisture-resistant sheetrock. The cement backer boards are usually a gray color (from the cement). You don't want the green stuff for a floor application. I would pick the thickest
100 square feet. The floor is a concrete slab, but I Karl, Would this work? If so it should save you a ton of money and a lot of work work. Use just enough floor leveler to make sure the slab is smoo
Not trying to start a flame war here......We've got a bout an inch and a half difference between the original hard wood in our dining room (110 year old craftsman) and the multiple layers (elcheapo k