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Total 12 documents matching your query.

1. separating aluminum and steel parts (score: 1): Author: Jack W Drews <vinttr4@geneseo.net>; Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 18:28:44 -0500; I am working on the restoration of a 1930's vintage classic car. I am trying to remove the quite large aluminum heads, each secured to the block with 21 studs, 1/2" diameter. As you can imagine, elec; /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00036.html (8,208 bytes)
2. Re: separating aluminum and steel parts (score: 1): Author: "Michael Lowe" <mlowe@itrade-sa.com>; Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:41:15 -0600; Some time ago we had a similar problem with an inline 6, got lucky with 3 cylinders that could be pressurized through the spark plug holes. We made up a manifold and got some good valves, used a hyd; /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00037.html (9,226 bytes)
3. Re: separating aluminum and steel parts (score: 1): Author: "Nils O. Ny" <n.ny@intest.com>; Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 09:42:34 -0500; Hello Jack, I don't envy you your particular problem however I have one suggestion which may help you out. I have not used this method myself, but have been assured that it really works and in your c; /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00039.html (9,320 bytes)
4. RE: separating aluminum and steel parts (score: 1): Author: "Tobin,Herbert" <htobin@foxboro.com>; Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:29:07 -0500; My response--> I have recently been through (and solved) a similar problem with a 1931 Rolls-Royce Phantom II which uses an aluminum OHV head. The technique that worked for me was to rotate each stu; /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00041.html (10,220 bytes)
5. Re: separating aluminum and steel parts (score: 1): Author: "Bruce Wentzel" <greendot@excelonline.com>; Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:39:34 -0500; My thinking is that although the pressurizing techniques suggested may get the head "broke loose", you will still have a real challenge getting the head to slide on the 21 studs. I heard of a techniq; /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00042.html (9,438 bytes)
6. Re: separating aluminum and steel parts (score: 1): Author: Bob Moore <mustang@best.com>; Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:16:39 -0800 (PST); I tried to do the same thing, except mine was bolted on- ended up snapping off several bolts flush with the block, one broke off flush with the headsuggest you try double nutting the studs to remove; /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00043.html (9,188 bytes)
7. Re: separating aluminum and steel parts (score: 1): Author: Mike Lee - Team Banana Racing <mikel@ichips.intel.com>; Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 09:18:03 -0800; I've luckily never been in your bind yet, but I've used the "heat aluminum, freeze steel" trick to get bearings seated. Maybe you might have some luck carefully locally heating and cooling the heat/; /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00044.html (9,133 bytes)
8. Re: separating aluminum and steel parts (score: 1): Author: "Tony Clark" <lotus.tony@airmail.net>; Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:09:00 -0600; Herbert Tobin's response to this problem exemplifies what is wonderful about this list: contributors who've "been there, done that" and will take the time to give full and complete information on a s; /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00046.html (8,215 bytes)
9. RE: separating aluminum and steel parts (score: 1): Author: "Gerald Brazil" <gerrybraz@voyager.net>; Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 14:26:12 -0500; Uncle Jack have you tried using a penetrant called Kroil made by Kano Chemical down in Tennessee? Best stuff I have ever used. Squirt it on and let it set and soak. Heat up the head with a rosebud. L; /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00048.html (8,802 bytes)
10. Re: separating aluminum and steel parts (score: 1): Author: Chris Heerschap <Heerschap@eng.kns.com>; Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 14:30:18 -0500; I agree completely. This list is the single most useful list, with the best signal to noise ratio, I have ever been on. cmh -- Chris Heerschap - UNIX Systems Mutilator/Postmaster mailto:Heerschap@kns; /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00049.html (8,433 bytes)
11. RE: separating aluminum and steel parts (score: 1): Author: tw@mcc.com; Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 14:29:35 -0600; I too have had excellent results with Kroil (see http://www.kanolabs.com, as far as I know they only sell it direct), but patience is definitely required. I have just about finished off my current ga; /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00056.html (8,529 bytes)
12. RE: separating aluminum and steel parts (score: 1): Author: Ben/Pam Zwissler <zwissler@hsonline.net>; Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 22:15:30 -0500; I second the recommendation on Kroil, good stuff. I also second this approach, repetitive heating and cooling and adding penetrant during the cooling has worked for me. Once you get the head off, yo; /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00077.html (10,948 bytes)

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