Mail Archive Search: <+subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Rear\s+Springs\s*$/>

Results:

References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Rear\s+Springs\s*$/: 27 ]

Total 27 documents matching your query.

1. Rear springs (score: 1): Author: "Tarnow, Joshua" <jtarnow@lehman.com>; Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 08:44:45 -0500; Listers, I will be checking/changing out my rear springs in short order (have a 1 inch height difference right to left). I'd love to get a play by play of how I should go about removing/replacing the; /html/6pack/2003-04/msg00051.html (7,380 bytes)
2. RE: Rear springs (score: 1): Author: "R. Ashford Little II" <ralittle2@mindspring.com>; Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 09:11:23 -0500; Josh, removing/replacing the rear springs is one of the easier jobs you will do on your TR6. It's just a matter of removing the rear wheel, jacking up the trailing arm, placing a jack stand under the; /html/6pack/2003-04/msg00052.html (8,243 bytes)
3. Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 16:03:31 -0700; I know that this has probably been covered several times, but you never really absorb anything till you need it. How can you tell if "stock" springs are installed in the rear end. then secondly and m; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00150.html (7,403 bytes)
4. Fwd: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>; Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 11:03:09 -0700 (PDT); Removing the rear springs is actually pretty easy. Jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheels. Put a jack under the trailing arm and jack it up a bit (to take pressure off the shock). Disconne; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00162.html (8,676 bytes)
5. Re: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>; Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 09:33:12 -0400; I was able to R&R the rear springs without disconnecting the Mike L 60A,67E,59Bug,74TR6 -- Original Message -- From: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com> To: <6pack@autox.team.net> Sent: October 6, 20; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00181.html (9,470 bytes)
6. Re: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 11:58:50 -0400 (EDT); Mes ouis! As the French might say. If you have stock springs on your car, the rear will be _very easy_ to push down. It will also "squat" under acceleration, to the point of bottoming out on the uppe; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00192.html (8,994 bytes)
7. Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: JRURHH@aol.com; Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 10:35:20 -0400; Well it's time for the help of the list again. Since it rained last weekend I decided to get jump on the winter project and change out the rear springs and shocks. I read on the list a few weeks ago; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00420.html (7,924 bytes)
8. RE: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>; Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 09:47:29 -0500; you need to use a conventional spring compressor ... can rent one at tool rental places or auto parts stores. do NOT try to release tension by taking the bolts out of the trailing arm. even a slightl; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00421.html (8,490 bytes)
9. Re: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: Irv Korey <emanteno@attglobal.net>; Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 09:55:18 -0500; No. Rotate the axle until it comes down just a little bit more. There is a spot where once found, the axle comes down a little bit more before it hits the frame. That little bit more is enough to rem; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00422.html (8,601 bytes)
10. RE: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: "Pappin,Ian" <ianp@nait.ab.ca>; Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 09:02:32 -0600; Hi Jim, I did this about two weeks ago. If you remove the four bolts from each side that connect the shafts to the differential the trailing arm will fall down enough for you. I think it's a good ide; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00423.html (8,650 bytes)
11. RE: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: "Walt Philipson" <wphilipson@bigfoot.com>; Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 11:08:17 -0400; Mine wouldn't come out that easily either. if I remember correctly, the axel was preventing the trailing arm from moving down enough. I removed the 4 bolts at the dif end of the axel, and that allow; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00424.html (8,629 bytes)
12. RE: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: "R. Ashford Little II" <ralittle2@mindspring.com>; Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 11:19:54 -0400; Just a follow up to Irv's suggestion, if rotating the axle still doesn't allow the spring to be removed then the next step is to loosen the half-shaft. This will allow the axle to drop even further.; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00425.html (9,470 bytes)
13. RE: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: "Philip E. Barnes" <peb3@cornell.edu>; Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 11:29:07 -0400; It has been my experience that there is not enough room to use a spring compressor, either external or internal. As others have already suggested, remove the half-shaft from the diff and you should g; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00426.html (9,372 bytes)
14. Re: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 11:31:54 -0700 (PDT); Jim--I have found rear spring removal to be as Irv suggests. Turning the rear hub (U-joint) to a spot where the axle drops to its lowest limit should provide enough clearance to remove the spring. (S; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00427.html (7,640 bytes)
15. Re: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 05:18:42 -0400; Don't despair ... you are doing it right! I have seen cars that will bind up the axle on the frame before releasing the spring. Here's what I'd do in that case: You can either lever the spring out w; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00474.html (8,580 bytes)
16. Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: "Wayne Ross" <rengrave@netzero.net>; Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 10:49:56 -0400; My 73 TR6 sat for 10 years on the tires, and when I brought it back to life in 1998 I noticed that the rear end was tilting lower on the drivers side. I know the frame is solid, so I measured the re; /html/6pack/2002-09/msg00080.html (7,741 bytes)
17. Re: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 15:07:19 +0000; Hi Wayne: I just rebuilt the suspension of my '69 TR6 this Spring. From the various threads regarding springs your selection can be pretty subjective. I purchased stock ride height, heavy duty spring; /html/6pack/2002-09/msg00081.html (8,832 bytes)
18. Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: "Matt M." <afterburn27@yahoo.com>; Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 11:21:55 -0700 (PDT); I recently rebuilt my suspension (front and rear) and I installed new competition springs from Moss. They are advertised as not changing the ride height, but they did on my car. They raised the car q; /html/6pack/2002-09/msg00089.html (7,665 bytes)
19. Fwd: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>; Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 16:00:03 -0700 (PDT); Goodparts springs (www.goodparts.com) are uprated and lower the car about an inch. They make the car look awesome, and handle great. They are also available through TRF, but make sure you specify the; /html/6pack/2002-09/msg00095.html (8,434 bytes)
20. Re: Rear Springs (score: 1): Author: StangGuy67@aol.com; Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 19:07:39 EDT; << Goodparts springs (www.goodparts.com) are uprated and lower the car about an inch. >> damn...their site is down for a re-design.... Kraig Griffiths 74 TR6; /html/6pack/2002-09/msg00096.html (7,239 bytes)

Current List: 1 - 20
Page: [1] [2]