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Total 15 documents matching your query.

1. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: "Nils O. Ny" <n.ny@intest.com>; Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 12:56:59 -0400; Hey John, you don't have to beg! It's a free country, you can differ all you like. If you read my comment you will see that I did not malign Loc-Tite. In fact I think it is a wonderful product when u; /html/shop-talk/1998-05/msg00001.html (9,897 bytes)
2. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: Susan and John Roper <vscjohn@iamerica.net>; Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 14:25:13 -0500; Nils, I don't mean to be testy, and perhaps we don't disagree. My experience, and I have been aroung a long time, is that studs break not because of fatigue, but becaues of poor metallurgy(Italian st; /html/shop-talk/1998-05/msg00003.html (11,167 bytes)
3. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: Heather & Joe Way <sierrasa@psln.com>; Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 13:30:00 -0700; I've been holding my tongue (fingers?) on this so far, but am finally compelled to comment. I am a *serious* user of Loctite products (some I buy by the liter) and of antiseize, and each has its plac; /html/shop-talk/1998-05/msg00005.html (9,584 bytes)
4. Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: "Matt Liggett" <mliggett-receive-shop-talk@elise.kiva.net>; Date: 29 Apr 1998 03:14:42 -0000; I'm currently drilling out 2 waterpump bolts which are really badly siezed in my A-series block. When I'm done, I plan to install studs and nuts instead of bolts. Carroll Smith reccomends the use of; /html/shop-talk/1998-04/msg00140.html (8,397 bytes)
5. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: Kelley Mascher <mascher@u.washington.edu>; Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:36:35 -0700 (PDT); Since I've never seen a water pump fall off of an A-series engine I vote for the anti-sieze. The whole problem with the bolts is corrosion, in fact think of the thermostat studs, and ask yourself if; /html/shop-talk/1998-04/msg00141.html (9,595 bytes)
6. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>; Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:45:23 -0700 (PDT); You don't want the studs to come out, right? Then Loctite 'em. If you do ever want to remove them, you can break the Loctite by heating the stud. But since you don't need to remove the studs to take; /html/shop-talk/1998-04/msg00142.html (8,681 bytes)
7. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: cak@dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev); Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 09:37:15 -0700; For those of you that are A series fans - indeed, the thermostat housing is the main culprit of corrosion, and there's a *real* fix now - APT got together with ARP and now sell stainless studs and nu; /html/shop-talk/1998-04/msg00143.html (8,051 bytes)
8. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: "Nils O. Ny" <n.ny@intest.com>; Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 14:31:32 -0400; I would not use Loc-Tite on engine studs. The whole idea is that you don't want to go through the drilling bit again when a stud breaks and that is exactly what you will end up doing if you use the L; /html/shop-talk/1998-04/msg00144.html (9,109 bytes)
9. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: "David P. Anderson" <davidp@wolfenet.com>; Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:05:01 -0700; You use the loc-tite to permanently ( more or less) mount the studs in the block, and then use the anti-sieze ( lightly) on the nuts. The loc-tite does prevent corrosion, but your best bet against c; /html/shop-talk/1998-04/msg00145.html (9,747 bytes)
10. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: "John Hardy" <hardwire@webleicester.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 23:52:46 +0100; Matt Liggett writes................... Loctite is a wonderful product but it is semi permanent. There is NO solvent. I've checked wirth the makers. You could end up drilling the studs out again becau; /html/shop-talk/1998-04/msg00146.html (8,866 bytes)
11. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: Susan and John Roper <vscjohn@iamerica.net>; Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 21:16:53 -0500; I beg to differ. Have used loctite products for many years. Nuts fixed in place with loctite are easily broken loose. Studs can be double nutted and broken loose, or in the case of thread problems, r; /html/shop-talk/1998-04/msg00147.html (9,515 bytes)
12. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: "R. John Lye" <rjl6n@virginia.edu>; Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 07:33:59; ...except heat. Lok-Tite breaks down with heat over 250 degrees (F) for most of the products (there may be a high heat version, but I don't know about it). So, if you can get heat to the part, you ca; /html/shop-talk/1998-04/msg00148.html (7,834 bytes)
13. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: "Nils O. Ny" <n.ny@intest.com>; Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 14:00:43 -0400; I think you are missing the point here ! Studs used in engine blocks were not intended to be put in with Loc-Tite or similar products. There is no problem removing studs that are not broken (Everyon; /html/shop-talk/1998-04/msg00149.html (8,478 bytes)
14. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: "John Hardy" <hardwire@webleicester.co.uk>; Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 23:13:35 +0100; John Lye writes............... Heat isn't a solvent. I do know about this, but there are many cases when it is inappropriate to use heat. I am just going by my past experience and that is for every 2; /html/shop-talk/1998-04/msg00151.html (8,175 bytes)
15. Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze (score: 1): Author: Susan and John Roper <vscjohn@iamerica.net>; Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 18:34:01 -0500; Again, I beg to differ. The issue under discussion was the use of thread locker in installing replacement studs, after the broken stud had been removed. The representation was made that loctite would; /html/shop-talk/1998-04/msg00153.html (9,400 bytes)

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