Search String: Display: Description: Sort:

Results:

References: [ +from:TR3driver@ca.rr.com: 4921 ]

Total 4921 documents matching your query.

61. RE: [TR] Questions about sill replacement on a TR3 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 08:28:09 -0800
I'm not either, but here's what little I know or have observed. The adhesive itself is not as strong as weld metal. What that means is that, to achieve an equivalent joint strength, the adhesive mus
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00688.html (10,540 bytes)

62. RE: [TR] TR3A door caps, etc, help needed (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 08:07:35 -0800
As we've discussed many times, these cars were crude and far from perfect when they left the factory. A large part of their appeal was their affordability ... otherwise people would have bought Jagu
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00694.html (9,253 bytes)

63. RE: [TR] Questions about sill replacement on a TR3 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 15:37:46 -0800
And is also the item called the "sill assembly" in the factory parts diagram. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to N
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00696.html (9,902 bytes)

64. RE: [TR] Questions about sill replacement on a TR3 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 15:23:51 -0800
I would suggest that when you start insisting that the sill is not the sill, it engenders confusion rather than avoiding it. Perhaps it would be better to refer (as some have done) to the outer sill
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00718.html (9,149 bytes)

65. RE: [TR] RE: lift (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 10:47:15 -0800
Easily solved with some 2x6 planks. If your cars won't clear a 2x6, then you'll have to go to 1x6 ... Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00014.html (6,996 bytes)

66. RE: [TR] Lift Thread (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 10:53:41 -0800
Or for the economy-minded, the 99-cent store sometimes has reading glasses. I bought an assortment in strengths from 1.0 to 3.25 and find they are very handy in the garage. It is a bit strange not b
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00016.html (7,221 bytes)

67. RE: [TR] Thrust washers (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 13:31:31 -0800
Sounds reasonable to me. That would put you at .012", which according to my TR3 book is the wear limit (actually .0117", but I won't quibble over a few 'tenths'). So yes, I'd suggest replacing the t
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00020.html (7,754 bytes)

68. RE: [TR] Roll Hoop offer (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 09:38:48 -0800
Ah, that explains something I was wondering about. There are substantial differences in frames between a TR4 and a TR4A; and to be effective, a roll hoop must tie solidly into the frame at least at
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00036.html (7,032 bytes)

69. RE: [TR] Heater Fan Switch (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 17:21:51 -0800
No need for a resistor. 5 amps @ 12v should be more than enough (obviously either number can be much higher and it will still work fine). In fact, the switch used for the wiper (and dash lights on e
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00045.html (7,801 bytes)

70. RE: [TR] Lucas lamp threads (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 17:36:55 -0800
Most likely, that would be a 3/8" BSF thread (20 tpi). But it might be a 1/8" BSP (.383" diameter, 28 tpi). You should probably put a thread gauge on it before buying anything. One source might be h
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00046.html (7,344 bytes)

71. RE: [TR] Overdrive leak. (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2006 13:56:19 -0800
Which is actually original equipment, P/N 502567. What some of the books don't mention is that the solenoid lever and the 'setting' lever on the other end of the shaft are supposed to be compressed
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00075.html (7,900 bytes)

72. RE: [TR] 1980 TR7 heater fan (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2006 18:27:42 -0800
The motor has to have power as well as ground ... where is the power coming from ? Any motor winding will be a very low resistance, no more than an ohm or two at most (and usually much less than tha
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00079.html (7,724 bytes)

73. RE: [TR] 1980 TR7 heater fan (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2006 19:37:56 -0800
My book shows that the motor has two wires, a green and a pink. The green wire goes to switched 12v from the fuse block; the pink wire connects to the green/slate wire at the resistor assembly. Not
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00080.html (7,343 bytes)

74. RE: [TR] OD Testing (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2006 08:24:54 -0800
Maybe you should really do it ? Something is clearly wrong. Engaging the OD should either raise the speedo or lower the tach, even with the rear wheels not touching anything (or the driveshaft disco
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00084.html (8,460 bytes)

75. RE: [TR] OD Testing (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2006 09:06:04 -0800
Not reversed anywhere ... that's normal operation ! As I said before, British switches operate the opposite of what Americans expect If you want to change it (to be wrong, as a DPO did on TS39781LO)
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00090.html (8,632 bytes)

76. RE: [TR] portable battery failure? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 11:35:56 -0800
Sure. What you have there is basically just a car battery, and a charger, in a single box. When batteries age, they lose capacity (as well as the internal resistance going up). More likely (IMO) the
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00204.html (8,706 bytes)

77. RE: [TR] Home alone - brake MC rebuild question (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 13:47:49 -0800
Or, buy a proper hex key from McMaster-Carr. ISTR the MC takes a 7/16", which is $2.51. Even a 1/2" short-arm key is only $3, or you could splurge and get the long-arm variety (still less than $5).
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00206.html (8,361 bytes)

78. RE: [TR] Home alone - brake MC rebuild question (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 15:28:03 -0800
Of course, Hugh. I was just trying to suggest that those who are contemplating this operation in the future should acquire the proper tool ahead of time. Randall == This list supported in part by Th
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00209.html (8,128 bytes)

79. RE: [TR] TR3A Grill (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 16:18:40 -0800
IMO, the factory fitting varied from bowed in slightly, to straight across. My cars have done the same. Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00215.html (7,450 bytes)

80. RE: [TR] TR3A Grill (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 20:29:01 -0800
It's well documented that, even when new, you could not take a fender off one of these cars and expect to bolt it onto another new car, without having to tweak it. The manufacturing tolerances were
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00232.html (7,839 bytes)

Current List: 61 - 80
Page: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] [20]
This search system is powered by Namazu