- 41. RE: TR3 Fuel Gauge (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 14:33:27 -0800
- I don't recall offhand which wire goes where, but the magnets have the same polarity. The wire from the sender is connected to the junction between the two magnets, so one gets weaker and the other
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg00992.html (6,876 bytes)
- 42. RE: Heater Core (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 17:51:39 -0800
- "Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity." - Robert J. Hanlon
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg00997.html (7,450 bytes)
- 43. RE: use both < and > to avoid split links on the newslist (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 18:19:00 -0800
- Not sure of your point, Paul, the list server always chops lines up no matter what is on them. However, eBay links can be shortened enough that the list server will not chop them, by observing that t
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01000.html (8,831 bytes)
- 44. RE: magazine art. on sill replacement? (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 10:08:52 -0800
- Paul, I've never done it myself, but I can see where it would be non-trivial to do it right. The inner sills (not the outer rocker panel) are a major structural component of the body, basically the
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01029.html (7,311 bytes)
- 45. RE: electrical problems, part 2 (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 13:32:03 -0800
- Do the headlights stay lit when the engine dies ? Do they look really dim ? How are the driving lamps powered ? I assume there's a relay, but where does it get battery power from ? I'm guessing this
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01034.html (8,545 bytes)
- 46. RE: Silicone Brake Fluif in Hyd Clutch? (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 11:15:26 -0800
- Let the bubbles rise before bleeding, if you've just added fluif to the MC. Otherwise, I used it in my TR3A clutch for many years with no problems. Randall
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01058.html (8,371 bytes)
- 47. RE: Buyer Beware! (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 17:19:01 -0800
- If packing charges were not mentioned in the auction under shipping costs, but the seller demands them, I believe you can report them as a non-performing seller. This is unfortunately a common scam
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01074.html (7,774 bytes)
- 48. RE: TR3 ignition mystery demystifyed (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 18:52:54 -0800
- Welcome to the club, Jim. One of the worst aspects of the Pertronix design is also it's only selling point (IMO) ... the heat sensitive electronics are housed inside the distributor, where they alwa
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01079.html (9,344 bytes)
- 49. RE: Buyer Beware! (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 10:53:33 -0800
- TeriAnn replied : eBay's stated policy for sellers is : "Sellers may charge reasonable shipping and handling fee to the final price of their item, providing that this fee is disclosed up front in th
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01089.html (10,555 bytes)
- 50. RE: TR3A Fuel Gauge (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 14:30:40 -0800
- The TR2-3B gauge works the opposite of all the later gauges, grounding the sender wire should make it read empty (or a bit below). Note that the body of the gauge needs to have a good ground (again
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01092.html (7,450 bytes)
- 51. RE: TR3 Ignition mystery (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2004 21:15:01 -0800
- I'm not in John's club (AFAIK), but I had a terrible time getting my Crane XR3000 to work to my satisfaction; and even now I can't say it runs any better than points. I ran for many years using poin
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01105.html (8,074 bytes)
- 52. RE: Restrictor Valve (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2004 06:42:08 -0800
- I am fairly certain you can just poke a drill bit through and tap out the insides of the valve. The 'screw' is (or at least was) just spring-loaded and the spring is probably no more. My suggestion
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01110.html (8,255 bytes)
- 53. RE: SU Carb Float Bowl Seals & Leaks (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2004 07:00:16 -0800
- Are you certain it's the seals that leak ? There is a plug in the float bowl between the two seal surfaces that might be leaking ... or the bowl casting itself might be porous. You could try using H
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01111.html (7,269 bytes)
- 54. RE: Restrictor Valve (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2004 07:39:15 -0800
- Under hard driving, the front spindles can deflect enough to push the caliper pistons back into the bores, resulting in a low pedal on the next brake application. Not low enough to be dangerous, IMO
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01114.html (7,703 bytes)
- 55. RE: SU H6 rebuild (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 14:40:26 -0800
- As long as you're not disturbing the throttle shafts, the rest of the rebuild is straight forward. "Dampness in the area of the adjusting nut" usually just means the jet seals are shot ... I find th
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01144.html (9,308 bytes)
- 56. RE: SU H6 rebuild (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 16:11:57 -0800
- I agree ! But instead of removing the spring (I assume you mean the spring inside the dashpot ?), I remove the mixture nut and push the jet upwards beyond it's normal position. By moving it higher o
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01146.html (8,358 bytes)
- 57. RE: Spark plug wire terminals (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 16:22:22 -0800
- NAPA still carried them just a few years ago. JCW probably still does too, at least they still sell bulk wire. Randall Y
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01167.html (7,090 bytes)
- 58. RE: Electrical Question & Wiring Harness Update (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 17:04:56 -0800 iBH15VAC006847
- One of them goes to a good body ground, and the reason they are fastened to the steering rack is to provide a ground path for the horn button. Sorry, I can't help with the other wire or where the bo
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01170.html (8,436 bytes)
- 59. RE: Sleeve Retainer goop (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 17:21:16 -0800
- Nowhere ! Unless of course you're putting together an engine with abnormally worn parts. I use the stuff on my TRactor motor, because the end of my crank is worn undersize where the pulley hub fits
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01172.html (7,817 bytes)
- 60. RE: SU H6 rebuild (score: 1)
- Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
- Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 17:38:42 -0800
- Stock H6 carb bodies do not have throttle shaft bushings, the aluminum casting has to be drilled for the new bushings. The book says not to drill all the way through, but leave a thin wall of alumin
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01173.html (9,265 bytes)
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