- 1. Questions (score: 1)
- Author: "DAVID GREEN" <alpdavegre@msn.com>
- Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 02:14:43 +0000
- Hello Listers, Hope you all had a great new year. I started mine out by installing the engine, transmission, & front suspension in my 1965 Tiger. The engine is a 260, the transmission is a T-5, and t
- /html/tigers/2005-01/msg00011.html (8,074 bytes)
- 2. RE: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: "Frank Marrone" <itswonderful@comcast.net>
- Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 18:46:08 -0800
- Yes. That is typical I believe. I had problems at #2 (your #2 right side I think) and #6 (#6 = your #2 left side I think). Also I had to relieve the down pipe on #1 to clear the frame rail, others h
- /html/tigers/2005-01/msg00012.html (8,355 bytes)
- 3. RE: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: "Frank Marrone" <itswonderful@comcast.net>
- Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 19:03:51 -0800
- As for a possible solution at #2 and #6, you may be able to grind the engine hanger instead of relieveing the headers. That is what I did. I was lucky because having been warned I made all the mods
- /html/tigers/2005-01/msg00013.html (6,998 bytes)
- 4. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: "DAVID GREEN" <alpdavegre@msn.com>
- Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 04:46:07 +0000
- Well I may have solved at least the clearance issue with the wheel to tie rod. After looking at Larry Paulick's article and a picture from an old e-mail on the tie rod hook up ( always helps to keep
- /html/tigers/2005-01/msg00016.html (7,226 bytes)
- 5. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: Larry Paulick <lpaulick@comcast.net>
- Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 09:41:29 -0500
- Dave, on the toe-in, call Dale. I did not have this problem with his kit. On the headers, I used Rick's and I had the same problem. If you did not put the motor mount spacer washers between the block
- /html/tigers/2005-01/msg00018.html (8,756 bytes)
- 6. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: Larry Paulick <lpaulick@comcast.net>
- Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 09:48:21 -0500
- I had forgotten, I also ground the motor mounts slightly, which gave me the clearance on some of the pipes, but be careful, as you don't want to go overboard and weaken the motor mounts. Build tolera
- /html/tigers/2005-01/msg00019.html (7,387 bytes)
- 7. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: Larry Paulick <lpaulick@comcast.net>
- Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 09:56:08 -0500
- Dave, remember the steering arms are switched as well. Both the tie rods and the steering arms are tapered so that is why the nut is on the top side. Larry
- /html/tigers/2005-01/msg00020.html (7,553 bytes)
- 8. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: Drmoonstone@aol.com
- Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 15:05:14 EST
- As far as the headers go, I know that with Cermakrome you can bend and beat the headers for fit without having the coating come off. With Jethot I would be concerned, check what they say and remember
- /html/tigers/2005-01/msg00023.html (6,967 bytes)
- 9. Questions (score: 1)
- Author: cmclendon@mindspring.com
- Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 20:34:57 -0400
- I have a few questions. I have searched listquest so if we have discussed this 1000 times I am sorry. 1. I bought the gasket that goes behind the headlight assembly. In working my way down, I have di
- /html/tigers/2000-06/msg00149.html (8,004 bytes)
- 10. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: Larry Paulick <larry.p@erols.com>
- Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 09:35:38 -0400
- 1. The headlight assembly was not riveted to the body, but they used sheet metal screws. Since using sheet metal screws is a good place to start rust, I used a screw and nut. BTW, the front turn sig
- /html/tigers/2000-06/msg00154.html (7,451 bytes)
- 11. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: Larry Paulick <larry.p@erols.com>
- Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 10:02:00 -0400
- Cecil, I pushed the send button too fast, as I did not finish. The other thing in this area is that I used ss bolts, with anti seize to be able to take it apart in the future. This area gets the wors
- /html/tigers/2000-06/msg00155.html (7,552 bytes)
- 12. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: Tiger289@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:02:27 EDT
- Actually the headlight assembly was originally riveted to the body. If someone has removed the assembly at some point they usually replace the rivets with screws. Andy
- /html/tigers/2000-06/msg00158.html (6,964 bytes)
- 13. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: Steve Laifman <Laifman@flash.net>
- Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 08:07:14 -0700
- Preference is individual, but rivets are not original or desirable. I used "rivnuts" which are inserted with a special tool, and put a captured threaded insert in the sheet metal. A stainless machine
- /html/tigers/2000-06/msg00159.html (9,275 bytes)
- 14. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: TigerCoupe@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:10:16 EDT
- << 1. I bought the gasket that goes behind the headlight assembly. In working my way down, I have discovered that the assembly appears to be riveted to the body of the vehicle. Is the preferred solut
- /html/tigers/2000-06/msg00161.html (7,831 bytes)
- 15. RE: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: Theo Smit <theo.smit@intel.com>
- Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:06:03 -0600
- I will probably get corrected on this, but I was told by one of our MEs that stainless steel is actually not a good material to use for a fastener in a corrosive environment (such as in a wheel well)
- /html/tigers/2000-06/msg00168.html (7,414 bytes)
- 16. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: Craig Wright <craig@productdesigngroup.com>
- Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:15:33 -0700
- Hello Larry, Most high quality stainless fasteners are grade 5 or better 316 stainless. They could be used in any almost application except where grade 8 is required. Any time you use a dissimilar me
- /html/tigers/2000-06/msg00169.html (7,987 bytes)
- 17. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: "Pete Stanisavljevich" <pete_stanisavljevich@coxtarget.com>
- Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 08:12:20 -0400
- Don't know Theo, Down here in sunny Florida, I've been on lots of boats with stainless fasteners and fittings that have been exposed to seawater for years. Some of these fittings, on sailboat masts f
- /html/tigers/2000-06/msg00173.html (8,067 bytes)
- 18. Questions (score: 1)
- Author: "Mark Meswarb" <mmeswarb@itexas.net>
- Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 14:08:32 -0500
- List, please help me with the following questions. 1) What does the stop light switch look like? Where is it located? If I can't find it, does Curt or SS carry new ones? 2) I have several different s
- /html/tigers/1999-08/msg00472.html (7,345 bytes)
- 19. Re: Questions (score: 1)
- Author: CMeinel464@aol.com
- Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 17:13:39 EDT
- Not to many questions, anyway here goes. 1: Both Rick and myself stock the brake light switch. It is located at the junction of the brake lines on the front lower right of the engine compartment und
- /html/tigers/1999-08/msg00475.html (6,737 bytes)
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