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Total 74 documents matching your query.

1. RE: Body work suggestions? (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 15:11:15 -0800
I am just completing repainting my whole spit. I did all the work myself. This is the third car that I have painted. Your answers depend on what you want when done. I would be surprised if you don't
/html/spitfires/2005-11/msg00005.html (10,480 bytes)

2. RE: Body work suggestions? Stud welders (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 08:28:26 -0800
Stud welders are the way to go. There are a few sizes of studs. The smaller ones are for sheet metal. The larger ones are for pulling out B post areas and heavier metal. Sometimes the studs can be br
/html/spitfires/2005-11/msg00012.html (7,438 bytes)

3. RE: semi-OT: Gran Turismo 4 (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 11:42:28 -0800
I have the Gran Turismo 3. Pretty good game. As you win races you will be able to upgrade your Spitfire in the shop and make it run faster, corner better, brake better, etc. Gran Turismo 4 when relea
/html/spitfires/2005-01/msg00039.html (7,839 bytes)

4. RE: Exhaust manifold - welds vs epoxy? and headers??? (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 10:09:15 -0700
Welding the headers, if the spot is accessible is no problem at all. Welding cast iron is almost not done and you are better off purchasing another manifold. Rob What about headers. I have a small le
/html/spitfires/2003-06/msg00280.html (7,862 bytes)

5. RE: spitfire - heater valve - bybass (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 09:40:58 -0700
I had a similar problem and just tore down the heater valve to identify/rectify the leaking problem. The heater valve is very rebuildable except for the lack of replacements parts. As the heater kno
/html/spitfires/2003-05/msg00055.html (8,054 bytes)

6. RE: Stripped front sealing block (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 11:50:33 -0700
Isn't this familiar. There are a couple of options. The best being finding a solid sealing block without much search. Good luck with that, they are usually only found on a engine, I don't recall seei
/html/spitfires/2003-05/msg00083.html (8,580 bytes)

7. RE: Where to mount aftermarket catalytic converter on '78 Spit (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 09:49:12 -0800
The effective place to mount the cat is as near to the exhaust manifold as possible. It need the heat to cause the chemical change over to a cleaner exhaust gas. If you have an air pump and hook it i
/html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00075.html (7,850 bytes)

8. RE: spitfire - heater valve - bybass (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 12:05:49 -0700
I too find that after sitting all winter, my heater valve leaks. Are these I also started up the spit to get it ready to drive. I found my clutch was sticking. After going through the master and slav
/html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00107.html (7,548 bytes)

9. RE: Bodywork Prep (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 12:20:13 -0800
I would have just tapped out the low spots with a hammer and dolly, sanded the paint down to bare metal where I could see or feel dips. Fill the low spots with body filler/bondo over bare metal. Sand
/html/spitfires/2003-02/msg00310.html (8,738 bytes)

10. RE: Spax Ride/Height Shocks... (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 09:15:56 -0700
Joe Curry wrote: Unfortunately, the only way I have found to adjust ride height (lower is what I assume you mean), is to either change the pickup points of the A-arms or to install shorter springs. I
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00013.html (8,469 bytes)

11. RE: Body off resto (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 10:34:40 -0700
Saving the windshield rubber is the least of your worries. You don't want to save it but want a new one and trying to get out the windshield without cutting the rubber is greatly risking cracking yo
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00197.html (8,499 bytes)

12. RE: Emissions fun, EGR vacuum from where? (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:17:18 -0800
John, It is more complicated than you think. If you connect it to a constant vacuum you will be very high on the CO's at idle. I'm away from my Calif smog spit but you have to find where the vacuum i
/html/spitfires/2002-03/msg00283.html (7,213 bytes)

13. RE: Emissions fun, ERG vacuum from where? (score: 1)
Author: "Rob T. Getzinger" <RTGetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 10:06:16 -0800
The port on the top inboard side of the Carb is the one to attach the EGR vacuum hose to. It should have the progressive vacuum. If you hook it up to the constant vacuum of the port coming off the r
/html/spitfires/2002-03/msg00316.html (7,112 bytes)

14. re: Rotten *^&^&%&** car! (score: 1)
Author: <rtgetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:54:25 PST
the $%^&%& gearbox has gone! All the forward gears are fine, but I've lost reverse completely. Mike, I had a similar problem. I cracked open the top of the gearbox and found that the reverse arm pivo
/html/spitfires/2001-12/msg00041.html (9,718 bytes)

15. re: Informal Poll (score: 1)
Author: <rtgetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 15:29:32 PST
When will it run? What is that leaking from underneath? Will you ever finish that car? Are you a sadist? How much are you going to spend on that car? Don't you ever get tired of that thing sitting ar
/html/spitfires/2001-12/msg00115.html (7,740 bytes)

16. re: Paint colour (score: 1)
Author: <rtgetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 10:55:29 PST
I missed the beginning of this thread. If you are painting the car or part of it don't be concerned about the color. Stop by your local automotive paint store and tell them the problem. You can purch
/html/spitfires/2001-12/msg00458.html (7,631 bytes)

17. re: 1296cc Piston still needed!! (score: 1)
Author: <rtgetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2001 8:11:02 PST
It was I who had the free 1296 piston. I checked the two good ones this morning and they are stamped "STD" with a diameter of 2.875" measured at the top. Bad news for your guy looking for a spare pi
/html/spitfires/2001-11/msg00120.html (6,780 bytes)

18. re: Fw: 1296cc Piston still needed!! - Second attemp!! (score: 1)
Author: <rtgetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 7:59:28 PST
(email problems, repeat?) I have the two free 1296 pistons. After puliing them out and cleaning them I noticed they are stamped "STD". Unfortunate for your guy but fortunate for my 1296 block. So no
/html/spitfires/2001-11/msg00153.html (7,422 bytes)

19. re: Free to a good home - o/size Journal Bearings (score: 1)
Author: <rtgetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 8:20:00 PST
I had a spit crankshaft turned down to 0.040" because it was already at 0.030". I had to drive 1200 miles round trip to get the block that had the crank in it and didn't know the condition. I wasn't
/html/spitfires/2001-11/msg00154.html (7,682 bytes)

20. Re: To swap or not to swap (score: 1)
Author: <rtgetzinger@scif.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 8:25:52 PST
The choice of originality vs swap is yours. I like my original '74 but it was a lot of work and chasing parts to do it original. It leaks just a bit, it's underpowered, it's reliable, nice specimen
/html/spitfires/2001-11/msg00317.html (7,938 bytes)

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