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References: [ +from:Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com: 223 ]

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121. Re: Alternative steering wheels? (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 06 Nov 2000 04:57:37 -0600; There are a number of after-market wheels available. The two most common seem to be Moto-Lita and Mountney. Mountney are a lot cheaper - I have had a couple of Mountney wheels and been very happy wi; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00061.html (8,565 bytes)
122. Re: Alternative steering wheels? (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 06 Nov 2000 04:57:23 -0600; There are a number of after-market wheels available. The two most common seem to be Moto-Lita and Mountney. Mountney are a lot cheaper - I have had a couple of Mountney wheels and been very happy wi; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00062.html (8,567 bytes)
123. Clock mounting (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 06 Nov 2000 08:02:09 -0600; After my adventures last week, losing my toolbox on the way home from the TRGB Autojumble (see True Gentleman!), I did actually manage to come home with some stuff from TRGB, including an old clock (; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00066.html (8,967 bytes)
124. Re: goalie_john@yahoo.co.uk (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 21 Nov 2000 03:50:59 -0600; You just had a replacement differential fitted, right? Did this noise appear as soon as the new diff was fitted? If so, it is almost certainly excess free play in the 'new' diff. Get under Saskia, a; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00330.html (8,006 bytes)
125. Re: Hot Start Problem, 1980 ZS carb (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 21 Nov 2000 04:16:56 -0600; An old, worn starter motor can act just like you have a flat battery - very slow, laboured turning of the engine, giving up after 2 or 3 turns, even though the battery is totally full. Happened to m; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00331.html (9,464 bytes)
126. Re: Newbie Spitfire owner with questioins... (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 27 Nov 2000 05:30:48 -0600; On Question 3 - do you mean the black plastic, padded bit that runs around the bottom edge of the dash? Or are you referring to the black vinyl-covered rail that runs along a bit below and behind th; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00406.html (8,839 bytes)
127. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 28 Nov 2000 09:38:53 -0600; I would agree that 16.9V sounds too much. The cause of this is almost certainly the alternator - this is all the more likely because you took a working, used one, rather than a reconditioned (i.e. g; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00462.html (11,079 bytes)
128. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 28 Nov 2000 11:07:31 -0600; Very easy to fit. Two screws hold it to the bulkhead. There is a push-on spade connector each side to connect the LT side, and the HT lead is just a push fit onto the terminal in the middle. It makes; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00468.html (9,488 bytes)
129. Re: Chrome or black trim ?? comment? (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 29 Nov 2000 11:51:01 -0600; Patrick and Mike, I disagree that all metals can be anodised. Anodising (UK spelling with s not z!) aluminium (UK again with extra 'i'!) takes advantage of the fact that aluminium oxide is very stabl; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00510.html (8,274 bytes)
130. RE: Chrome or black trim ?? comment? (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 30 Nov 2000 02:37:09 -0600; I stand corrected - I had not appreciated that it is the chromium in stainless steel that is oxidised during anodising, in place of the iron content. I guess for brass it is that aluminium that is o; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00530.html (10,682 bytes)
131. Re: external door handle push rods (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 02 Oct 2000 05:00:12 -0500; Craig Smith was on the list a couple of weeks ago asking about this part. I had one break about a year ago - the big UK suppliers (Moss and Rimmers) do not stock these, only the complete handles as; /html/spitfires/2000-10/msg00017.html (8,495 bytes)
132. Re: external door handle push rods (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 02 Oct 2000 05:21:32 -0500; Craig Smith had this problem a couple of weeks ago. I pointed him in the direction of TRGB (small-ish outfit near Cambridge), who had supplied me with exactly this part a year or so ago - and theirs; /html/spitfires/2000-10/msg00018.html (8,424 bytes)
133. What's wrong with my brakes? (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 09 Oct 2000 07:23:13 -0500; Symptoms - First press of the pedal, lots of travel before there is any braking effect. Since there is not much travel left, I hit the floor before I can achieve strong braking; mild braking require; /html/spitfires/2000-10/msg00085.html (8,579 bytes)
134. Re: Window regulator removal (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 09 Oct 2000 07:49:00 -0500; I must admit I've never had much trouble removing the pins that retain the window handles. I use one hand to push back the black plastic trim bit ('escutcheon' I believe is the technical term!), and; /html/spitfires/2000-10/msg00088.html (8,299 bytes)
135. RE: What's wrong with my brakes? (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 09 Oct 2000 08:05:28 -0500; That was quick everyone! Thanks to Craig, Patrick and Chuck who replied within Universal opinion - it is my master cylinder, or possibly caliper/slave cylinder. Patrick reckoned that it is more likel; /html/spitfires/2000-10/msg00089.html (8,533 bytes)
136. RE: What's wrong with my brakes? (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 09 Oct 2000 08:36:18 -0500; Thanks again to you all for your swift replies. Good point about tandem systems. Daffy was first registered August '78, which should make her a tandem brake system, but in fact she is single cylinder; /html/spitfires/2000-10/msg00092.html (8,718 bytes)
137. RE: What's wrong with my brakes? (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 09 Oct 2000 08:41:04 -0500; Hello yet again! Craig has just suggested that I replace my fluid with DOT5 while I am at it. Am I right in thinking that this requires, at the very least, a purge of the DOT4 that is in the system c; /html/spitfires/2000-10/msg00093.html (8,583 bytes)
138. Re: What's wrong with my brakes? (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 10 Oct 2000 02:52:48 -0500; Eric suggested that it could just be an air pocket in my brake lines, and to test this by stomping on the brake and seeing if it works straight away. Well, I tried this on the way home, and however h; /html/spitfires/2000-10/msg00111.html (9,478 bytes)
139. Re: Hershey Car Show (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 11 Oct 2000 10:19:50 -0500; The "overdrive" script badge is listed in all the catalogues I have (Rimmers, Moss and TRGB). They all sell the badge for GBP 13.95, before tax. Part number is 603906, for all 3 suppliers. If you do; /html/spitfires/2000-10/msg00134.html (6,720 bytes)
140. Re: What's wrong with my brakes? (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 12 Oct 2000 07:43:42 -0500; Thanks to all who advised me on my brakes (Patrick, Craig, Chuck, Tim, Eric, Howard, Bill, Michael, David. Greg, Doug - God, there's a lot of you helpful guys out there!). I just bled my brakes durin; /html/spitfires/2000-10/msg00167.html (10,781 bytes)

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