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81. Re: Magnesium wheels (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 11:54:58 -0800; it weighs about 2/5 of what the aluminum wheels do. P*rsch* makes parts out of both metals- the aluminum feels light, the mag feels like air in comparison. But Magnesium is brittle, and gets worse w; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-12/msg00840.html (7,404 bytes)
82. Shelby wheels (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 12:21:11 -0800; That brings up a question- does anyone know the story behind Shelby's wheels? They were made for a BUNCH of different cars... Thanks! Toby; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-12/msg00875.html (6,522 bytes)
83. it's NOT that Speedo gear AGAIN (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 00:45:08 -0800; But Victor, maybe it IS right! You 2L guys just go too fast anyway. <grin> Toby 68 1600 69 2L that hasn't turned a wheel since '87 <sorrow>; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00000.html (6,603 bytes)
84. Re: Front wheel seal removal (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 20:28:18 -0800; Hee hee, Yes, Fred, you can pry the seal out from behind, or you can drift out the bearing from the front! Amazingly, if you're gentle, you CAN beat on a bearing. Personally, I use a wide-bladed scre; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00045.html (7,808 bytes)
85. Re: Paint Stripping (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 00:50:01 -0800; Honestly, don't do anything. If you take away more metal, you'll just weaken the panels, and it's pretty unlikely that you'd be able to grind them straight again. You could go nuts with a body file,; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00049.html (7,736 bytes)
86. Re: front end geometry (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Sat, 06 Nov 1999 01:30:33 -0800; If you re-eyeball it, you'll find that the trailing a-arm pivot lines up with the ball joints. As to method, ? It does make the front suspension into a slight trailing arm, doesn't it? It's a brillia; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00101.html (8,419 bytes)
87. Re: bead blasting (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 13:58:29 -0800; I can answer that! Depends on the media and the applicator. If you blast at 90 psi with glass bead, it does a nice job of 'keying' the surface of the metal to take primer. You may not want to use et; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00128.html (7,582 bytes)
88. Re: Panic Stop and abs (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 13:08:13 -0800; There's also a liability issue with ABS- skid marks on the pavement don't lie. If you're in a panic-stop situation, they prove, to the inch, where you got on the brakes HARD. THis may be good for you; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00213.html (7,477 bytes)
89. Re: Engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:40:36 -0800; If you haven't put the pistons in, the crank should turn easily. With the pistons, it should be harder to turn, but it should be do-able by hand- perhaps pushing and pulling on the counterweights. I; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00245.html (8,303 bytes)
90. Re: Welders (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 09:51:34 -0800; I'd agree, and have a Century 105 that also does pretty well. It was inexpensive, but works as well as the Hobart... Toby; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00370.html (7,213 bytes)
91. Lots of Oil pressure... (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 10:18:17 -0800; of course, for my BMW 2002 which IDLES at 60 psi and routinely hits 80 in normal driving. Almost 100 when cold. And, yep, that's normal! (well, the popoff is designed to start opening at 70 psi) BTW; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00371.html (7,168 bytes)
92. Re: Synchros (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 10:27:45 -0800; it depends on the type you have. The smooth Porsche-style are easy to see, but hard to get to- you can see wear on the surface of the ring, if you pull it out of the transmission. You can also measu; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00372.html (8,416 bytes)
93. Re: Front Suspension Geometry Curves (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 00:18:32 -0800; The "Thomas Walter Tech Post of the week" goes to you, Chris. Cool. Now, my feeble attempt to interpret this set of graphs! The roadster has some, but not very much, bump steer, and when it does bum; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00398.html (8,954 bytes)
94. Re: POR-15 and Dynamat and hammerite (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 00:37:28 -0800; I've used generic asphalt padding and it does work pretty well to deaden sound transmission. Comes in several thicknesses, too. Make sure every large, unstressed panel has a good bit on it. It reduce; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00399.html (8,304 bytes)
95. Re: Rear Brake Swap (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:22:54 -0800; on a '67, is that true? I know a 67 1/2 has the same cylinders as later cars, but it also has the dual system. You could measure 'em! If you make the rear cylinders smaller, you'll reduce braking on; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00536.html (8,182 bytes)
96. Re: Of bumpstops (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:29:37 -0800; The bump stops are designed as part of your suspension system, so if you have the comp springs, you WANT to cut the stops! Sharp's mods are pretty accepted, so I think you're doing the right thing. S; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00537.html (7,276 bytes)
97. Re: Rear Brake Swap (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 12:44:00 -0800; Tom, you're backwards! For more rear braking force, use a LARGER cylinder. For less, use a SMALLER cylinder. Think about it this way(I'm exaggerating and rounding numbers for clarity)- you push on t; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00571.html (9,063 bytes)
98. Re: Rear Brake bias (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 12:51:39 -0800; since the master cylinder bore's the same diameter for both circuits, it's the wheel cylinders that compensate for the different types of brakes! (Drums vs. disc) And wheel position (front vs. back); /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00573.html (7,663 bytes)
99. Re: Rally gear... (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 13:34:20 -0800; Isn't the Halda the name-brand for the in-car rally timing clock? Curta??? And the Heuer would have to be some sort of clock as well... Hmmmm. Toby; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00601.html (6,999 bytes)
100. Re: removing front bump stops (score: 1): Author: Toby B <toby@wolfenet.com>; Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 13:36:25 -0800; I seem to remember that, on post-'67 cars,the front lower stops are molded to their towers, and to remove the towers you have to pull the 4 bolts that hold the lower ball joint tot he lower suspensi; /html/datsun-roadsters/1999-11/msg00602.html (7,238 bytes)

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