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References: [ +from:stephen.early@fiacardservices.com: 36 ]

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1. RE: Finding an open or short in car electrical system (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2006 08:29:55 -0500; It is common practice to run a 3 wire w/ground to the kitchen sink area. The purpose is to provide one dedicated circuit to the dish washer and another to the disposer without having to run two sepa; /html/bricklin/2006-12/msg00024.html (9,118 bytes)
2. RE: Finding an open or short in car electrical system (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2006 09:19:08 -0500; Yes, that is the same kind of circuit. They are very useful when you have multiple high-draw items in close proximity, such as a kitchen or garage. I believe they are used in Holiday in Express rooms; /html/bricklin/2006-12/msg00026.html (8,669 bytes)
3. RE: Amp gauge (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Mon, 07 May 2007 08:39:03 -0400; Yes, you can. Stephen I. Early Technology Sector Bank of America Corporation 800.441.7048 x74788 stephen.early@fiacardservices.com; /html/bricklin/2007-05/msg00004.html (6,551 bytes)
4. RE: Noisy Starting (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Thu, 31 May 2007 08:15:01 -0400; Most likely it is one of three things: worn starter ring gear on the flywheel worn starter gear or sticking bendix mechanism. Pull the starter then examine the flywheel ring gear while rotating the e; /html/bricklin/2007-05/msg00019.html (7,856 bytes)
5. RE: compressor not coming on (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Thu, 31 May 2007 08:44:18 -0400; Mine has an inline fuse next to the compressor. A while back I had the same problem and found the fuse contacts were corroded. I replaced the fuse holder with a weather-proof one and the compressor w; /html/bricklin/2007-05/msg00021.html (7,456 bytes)
6. RE: Amp gauge (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2007 13:28:44 -0400; I'm puzzled too. One thought I have-maybe your alternator is exceeding the capacity of the amp gauge. I'm not sure if this would damage it or not. You might try temporarily wiring in a higher range a; /html/bricklin/2007-06/msg00002.html (8,628 bytes)
7. RE: An intermittent problem (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 08:00:13 -0400; More advice for you.... If you are still running a points/condenser setup, check the condition and gap of the points. Burnt, dirty or improperly gapped points or a failing condenser will cause the pr; /html/bricklin/2007-07/msg00010.html (8,137 bytes)
8. RE: #2121 (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2007 09:22:05 -0400; I use USAA's collector car insurance. They don't underwrite classic cars themselves but use a third party contracted by them. The only downside is not everyone can use USAA, you must have US military; /html/bricklin/2007-08/msg00002.html (7,290 bytes)
9. RE: To much pedal for Brakes (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2007 14:58:14 -0400; I'm not sure. I've never messed with the proportioning valve when bleeding brakes. Stephen I. Early Card Services Technology Bank of America Corporation 800.441.7048 x74788 stephen.early@fiacardservi; /html/bricklin/2007-09/msg00004.html (7,932 bytes)
10. RE: Door Gaps (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 09:16:13 -0400; If your doors have not been reinforced the gap is probably due to a bent door. I'm not aware of a cheap fix. Stephen I. Early Card Services Technology Bank of America Corporation 800.441.7048 x74788; /html/bricklin/2007-09/msg00010.html (7,215 bytes)
11. RE: AC Clutch Switch (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 08:32:29 -0400; Just checked mine on my '74. The clutch only activates if all three of the following are true: A/C clutch switch is on Fan is on Key is on Sounds like yours is not wired properly Stephen I. Early Car; /html/bricklin/2007-09/msg00050.html (6,889 bytes)
12. RE: Brake Issues Still (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 15:38:58 -0400; Typically, the problem you describe of the pedal going nearly to the floor indicates a circuit failure like I described earlier. If the problem were air in the lines the brakes would engage early in; /html/bricklin/2007-10/msg00001.html (9,535 bytes)
13. RE: Brake Issues Still (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 16:16:05 -0400; I don't know of a way to test the master. The vacuum booster just multiplies your pedal pressure; it will not cause the problem you have. Good flow from the bleeder screw tells you the lines are clea; /html/bricklin/2007-10/msg00003.html (9,086 bytes)
14. RE: Brake Issues Still (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 12:58:37 -0400; e. Excessive lateral play of discs - I don't understand this one. is meaning that the rotors are too thin or can move on the hubs. But in our case the rotor is the hub. Excessive lateral play means t; /html/bricklin/2007-10/msg00012.html (8,268 bytes)
15. RE: Brake Issues Still (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2007 14:16:23 -0400; Good example of a potentially elusive cause of a similar problem. I'm thinking out loud but perhaps you could remove both calipers and c-clamp the piston in place and remove both drums and c-clamp th; /html/bricklin/2007-10/msg00013.html (9,598 bytes)
16. RE: Brake Issues Still - Solved (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 04:44:32 -0400; Great to hear you've got it fixed. Stephen I. Early Card Services Technology Bank of America Corporation 800.441.7048 x74788 stephen.early@fiacardservices.com; /html/bricklin/2007-10/msg00018.html (6,846 bytes)
17. RE: Alternator/Battery/Charging Issue (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 08:51:10 -0400; A few simple tests can tell you the health of your charging system. First, remove the battery and charge it fully. Keep in mind that even a new battery that gets fully discharged only a few times can; /html/bricklin/2007-10/msg00028.html (9,552 bytes)
18. RE: Engine will not start. (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:08:55 -0400; Since you have 12v at the + side of the coil, focus on the distributor. Are the cap and rotor clean inside? Are the points clean and gapped correctly? Is the wire from the condenser to the points in; /html/bricklin/2007-10/msg00037.html (8,451 bytes)
19. RE: Engine will not start. (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:20:35 -0400; One more thing, you verified you have 12v at the + side of the coil with the key in the run position, verify you have 12v at the + side of the coil when the key is turned to the start position. Steph; /html/bricklin/2007-10/msg00038.html (9,061 bytes)
20. RE: Still no start (score: 1): Author: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>; Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 07:58:44 -0400; Disconnect the wire/wires from the + side of the coil. Connect a jumper wire from the + side of the coil to the + side of the battery. If you get no spark, the problem is in the ignition (coil, distr; /html/bricklin/2007-10/msg00046.html (8,020 bytes)

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