Good example of a potentially elusive cause of a similar problem.
I'm thinking out loud but perhaps you could remove both calipers and
c-clamp the piston in place and remove both drums and c-clamp the wheel
cylinder pistons in place. Then test the pedal. Theoretically, it
should be rock hard with no travel. If not, you know the problem is not
related to the calipers or wheel cylinders or the adjustment of the rear
brakes. If that test is good, you could reassemble the brakes on one
wheel at a time, testing the pedal each time. When the problem
manifests itself, you've narrowed it down to one specific wheel.
Stephen I. Early
Card Services Technology
Bank of America Corporation
800.441.7048 x74788
stephen.early@fiacardservices.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 1:07 PM
To: Early, Stephen; John T. Blair; Bricklin@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Brake Issues Still
I also have a GM car where the front rotors had good surfaces, but the
fins linking the inboard and outboard discs had deteriorated, causing
the rotors to squeeze together, creating extra pedal travel...
very spongy and deep pedal.
Smoky P
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Early, Stephen" <stephen.early@fiacardservices.com>
> e. Excessive lateral play of discs - I don't understand this
one.
> Unless it
> is meaning that the rotors are too thin or can move on the
hubs. But
> in our case the rotor is the hub.
>
> Excessive lateral play means the disk is moving too much side
to side.
> Assuming the wheels are pointed straight ahead, the disc
should remain
> in a vertical plane parallel to the centerline of the car. Too
much
> lateral play can be caused by a warped disc or loose or
damaged bearings
> which allow the disc to move too much left to right. Too much
left to
> right movement of the disc will push the brake caliper piston
too far
> back into the housing which will require more pedal travel to
push the !
> ; piston back out.
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