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121. Trailing arm- date of manufacture (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 13:02:02 -0500; I have just finished cleaning up the trailing arms on the 250 and thought I'd check to see if they were the proper arms for my car. In his book, Roger Williams states "...Triumph's casting sub-contra; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00113.html (7,430 bytes)
122. Re: TR6 Carpet Kits from The Roadster Factory (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 16:20:26 -0500; Actually, I like having the suppliers on the list describing their products. In this case I've learned that if I want a thick pile carpet I'll order from Skinner and if I want an original looking ca; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00482.html (11,405 bytes)
123. Re: LHD to RHD Conversion - Info Available? (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 07:58:12 -0500; Hi Matthew, Welcome to the list. I can't point you to a website, but I can recommend a book. How to Restore Triumph TR5/250 & TR6 by Roger Williams has a bunch of pages on LHD to RHD conversion. Pete; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00503.html (10,075 bytes)
124. Re: TR250 Windshield Wiper motor removal (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 08:33:48 -0500; Slacken the big nut on the output tube, then remove the bolts holding the motor to the shelf. You will now have enough flex in the cable to move the motor into a position that allows you to get at a; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00622.html (8,346 bytes)
125. Re: Leaky Choke (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 08:35:50 -0500; I spoke to Joe Curto about this problem. He says that it is most likely caused by having the float set too high on the offending carb. I haven't checked this on mine yet. Peter '68 TR250; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00623.html (8,213 bytes)
126. Re: Where to start (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:44:11 -0500; Purchase the William's book from 6Pack and support our club. Peter '68 TR250; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00663.html (8,534 bytes)
127. Re: TR250 Wiper Motor and Gear box (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 20:06:05 -0500; As you've found, the 250 wiper motor is different than the 6. I think the 250 motor is a holdover from the TR4A. I have a spare in the basement and just took it apart for a look. The part labeled 14; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00668.html (8,777 bytes)
128. Re: Great pics! (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 17:11:36 -0500; Wow, are those HP#s at the wheels? Peter '68 TR250 (The TIG weldor came today to inspect my mess on the diff brackets, he said no problem to fix. Next time I'll leave the upside down thin metal weldi; /html/6pack/2002-12/msg00099.html (8,369 bytes)
129. Differential (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 20:48:47 -0500; OK, time to tackle the (leaky) differential seals. Tonight, I drilled and tapped a hole in the bottom of the diff to fit a 3/8" pipe plug (same size as the filler hole. I installed one of those brass; /html/6pack/2002-12/msg00221.html (8,192 bytes)
130. Follow-up on differential seal replacement (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 11:37:11 -0500; Thought I'd follow-up and thank the list for all the suggestions regarding replacement of the oil seals on the axle shafts of my differential. In particular, I'd like to thank Bob Lang who suggested; /html/6pack/2002-12/msg00332.html (7,075 bytes)
131. Re: Dripping pinion seal (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 19:52:32 -0500; A few thoughts. Did you grease the lip of the seal before installing? It takes awhile for the gear oil to get up to the seal, so pre-lubrication is warranted. Are you sure that the flange had no gro; /html/6pack/2002-12/msg00717.html (8,261 bytes)
132. Black coating on the shift lever shaft (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 11:53:05 +0000; The black coating on my shift lever is more of a rubberized/ plastic coating than powder-coating or heavy paint. I know this because I have a minor tear that pulled away from the metal shaft. I was t; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00105.html (6,750 bytes)
133. Re: Supercharged TR6 (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 17:40:04 +0000; Thanks for reminding me. I enjoyed reading the article again. Peter '68 TR250; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00109.html (7,190 bytes)
134. Re: Rear Hubs (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 19:36:14 +0000; The stud doesn't turn, it should be welded in place. What Andy was referring to is that this stud gets most of the abuse and is usually the first one to break. Look it and its bracket over well when; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00114.html (10,967 bytes)
135. Re: TR-6 Fuel pump (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 17:18:46 +0000; Look over the inlet and outlet check valves and be sure you didn't reverse them. Peter '68 TR250; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00146.html (7,111 bytes)
136. Re: Welding advice (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 17:07:59 +0000; I'm going to tackle this job over the winter without removing the body from the frame (if I can ever get the !#??#!! SS exhaust system loose). I have been wondering how I'll get the tip of my MIG in; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00186.html (7,769 bytes)
137. Separating exhaust pipe from header (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 14:26:27 +0000; Planning to reinforce the diff brackets and replace a couple of seals in the diff. Began work this weekend, no rush, got all winter. Good thing. I've spent about 3 hours trying to remove the exhaust; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00239.html (7,240 bytes)
138. Re: Separating exhaust pipe from header (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 18:59:30 +0000; Well, I had to report back. I used straight acetylene gas and got the pipe glowing cherry red all round. I heated and pulled, heated and pulled. Forget it, not coming apart that way! Finally gave up; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00267.html (8,144 bytes)
139. Re: welders (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 09:27:57 -0500; I gotta jump in here. The Lincoln does come with the MIG kit if you buy the MIG-Pak 10 (or 15). Cost from Eastwood with a welding cart was $396 for the MIG-Pak 10. No lessons, but a great price and w; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00346.html (10,514 bytes)
140. Trailing arms (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 11:20:48 -0500; Two quick questions concerning the trailing arms: 1) Is it prudent to use loc-tite (red or blue) on the studs holding the half shafts to the arms (the end of the stud that threads into the arm, not t; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00401.html (7,319 bytes)

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