Marty,
The stud doesn't turn, it should be welded in place. What Andy was referring
to is that this stud gets most of the abuse and is usually the first one to
break. Look it and its bracket over well when you take the diff out. You
will see what we mean once you get there.
Peter
'68 TR250
on 11/8/02 12:24 AM, The Romagni's at mrdr@buckeyeweb.com wrote:
> Andy,
>
> Loose front stud? Does one of the diff mounting studs turn thus preventing
> you from removing the bolt? Could you elaborate?
>
> Thanks to Dick, Bob, Andy and Walt for the timely replies!
>
> Marty Romagni
> 1974 TR6
> Painesville, Oh
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Andrew Packard <apackard@triad.rr.com>
> To: The Romagni's <mrdr@buckeyeweb.com>; <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 7:27 PM
> Subject: Re: Rear Hubs
>
>
>> If your dust shields are really stiff, take a hair dryer to them for a few
>> minutes to make them pliable enough to turn them back. You'll likely have
>> to rewire the dust boot and the dust shields when you reassemble, just be
>> sure to overlap and wrap with tie wire before the shaft flanges are
> attached
>> to the diff.
>>
>> My understanding is that a rebuild of a rear end can be quite expensive,
>> assuming that the ring and pinion gears are to be replaced. This set of
>> parts is near $300. Add for the new seals and bearings and you will
> quickly
>> get to near $500 before labor. I replaced my TR250 diff with a used TR6
> one
>> who's history was well known by my British car mechanic. He renewed the
>> three seals and charged me $450 with my core. I would have been looking
> at
>> over $800 in parts and labor to rebuild my old diff. Good luck with your
>> project. Once you remove the rear exhaust and the bolts to the drive
> shaft
>> and stub axles, the diff is easy to remove with a floor jack underneath
> it.
>> Beware of a loose front right stud and the rear rubber mount sleeves being
>> rusted to the rear stud(s).
>> Andy
>> TR250
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "The Romagni's" <mrdr@buckeyeweb.com>
>> To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 9:05 PM
>> Subject: Rear Hubs
>>
>>
>>> Hi everyone,
>>>
>>> I'm working toward replacing my rear springs and trailing arm bushings.
> As
>> I
>>> was disassembling the first side, I has some difficulty removing the hub
>>> assembly from the car. I disconnected the hub assembly from the diff and
>> the
>>> trailing arm, but I could not remove it from the car because the dust
>> shield
>>> wouldn't fit thru the opening in the trailing arm. I removed the wire on
>> the
>>> boot covering the yoke/spline and got it out that way.
>>>
>>> Is there an easier way to remove the hub without removing the boot and
> it
>>> separating into two parts (or is that the way it is supposed to come
> out)?
>>> Also, now that one side is apart, what kind of lubricant do I use on the
>>> spline when I reassemble it?
>>>
>>> Also, how much should I look to spend for a diff rebuild? Once I get
> both
>>> trailing arms off it would be pretty simple (I think) to get the diff
> out,
>>> send it for a rebuild and check the mounts.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Marty Romagni
>>> 1974 TR6
>>> Painesville, Ohio
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