- 1. Together Again - Clutch Job Done (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2001 22:13:06 -0400
- It has been since last July, but today I finally drove my TR6 in the light off day. Last July my clutch fork pin broke, and today I got the last bits together for a drive. 10 miles or so, and everyth
- /html/6pack/2001-04/msg00006.html (8,226 bytes)
- 2. Re: Clutch Fork Taper Pin Removal (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:42:27 -0500
- Jim, check the archives. I just did this, and am waiting for some free time to put my car back together. The only thing that really worked for me was to cut the shaft. I takes about 10 minutes with a
- /html/6pack/2001-02/msg00070.html (9,094 bytes)
- 3. Re: bleeding brakes (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 10:45:34 -0500
- I've had luck with the gravity method as described in Carol Smith's Engineer to Win. Open up the pass. side rear and fronts simulaneously, let it bleed, then do the driver's side. Worked for me... Ke
- /html/6pack/2001-02/msg00202.html (7,070 bytes)
- 4. Re: Clutch confusion (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 14:11:28 -0500
- Can you please note all of the part numbers needed for this? I like BPNW, and have bought from them in the past. Their Sachs 4pc. kit is $187, but they have a B&B 3pc kit for $110. Any advice is gre
- /html/6pack/2001-01/msg00017.html (8,722 bytes)
- 5. clutch progress (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 08:53:04 -0500
- I got the clutch fork and shaft out of the tranny last night. First, I drilled a small hole in the fork opp. of the broken pin to no avail. In fact, I wound-up drilling through the broken pin still
- /html/6pack/2001-01/msg00043.html (6,687 bytes)
- 6. Re: Urethane Bushings (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 17:35:48 -0500
- When I did my fronts with urethane, I greased them with a copper-based anti-seize. It's been a few years now w/o a squeek... YMMV, Kevin. PS. Clutch components have been ordred. Will be cross bolting
- /html/6pack/2001-01/msg00078.html (8,440 bytes)
- 7. Re: Electronic Ignitions (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 08:24:38 -0500
- This may or may not help you, but I've been running a Crane XR700 for about 7 or so years now w/o any problems. I'm using a Crane "chrome" coil, and followed the instructions with the kit and added t
- /html/6pack/2001-01/msg00122.html (8,426 bytes)
- 8. Re: '71 reflectors (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 08:27:39 -0500
- I have them on my car, CC59587 I think. October '70 build date, if I remember right from the BMHT Cert. I reinstalled them when I have the rear of the car repainted BLACK! HTH, Kevin --
- /html/6pack/2001-01/msg00123.html (9,413 bytes)
- 9. Re: Electronic Ignitions (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 08:49:30 -0500
- I believe the balast resistor controls the current going to the coil. On start-up, more juice goes to the coil to help starting, then once the car is started the current flows throught the resistor
- /html/6pack/2001-01/msg00180.html (11,268 bytes)
- 10. Clutch Woes (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 15:28:23 -0500
- Dear Listers: Last summer my TR6's clutch stopped functioning. When it broke, it felt and sounded like a mechanical snap. I've just now gotten the tranny out to inspect the dammage. The clutch fork p
- /html/6pack/2000-12/msg00114.html (7,476 bytes)
- 11. Re: Halogen headlamp upgrade (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 14:10:44 -0500
- Our esteemed 6pack president has them on his car, and I can say that they are very cool looking. He is also quite an aficionado of period aftermarket lighting too. Yours in motoring, Kevin D. O'Conno
- /html/6pack/2000-11/msg00082.html (9,909 bytes)
- 12. Re: weber dgv carbs (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 17:14:24 -0400
- The maintenance has been very little. These are quality carbs. When I put them on the car in 1987, I was driving the car daily. The Stombergs were sucking air from the throttle shafts. The carb swap,
- /html/6pack/2000-10/msg00127.html (8,129 bytes)
- 13. Re: Wax wizard (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 16:24:07 -0400
- Not sure, but I'm very happy with Griot's Garage's products. --
- /html/6pack/2000-08/msg00001.html (6,607 bytes)
- 14. Road & Track (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 10:29:09 -0400
- Has anyone seen the new Road & Track? Check-out the contents page for a picture of a white TR6. I'm livid. Signed, the black panel nazi. PS. My pride & joy is currently sidelined with what I think is
- /html/6pack/2000-08/msg00013.html (6,482 bytes)
- 15. Re: Rear Springs (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 08:09:56 -0400
- I've got the British Parts NW springs in my TR6, I think the "mild comp." or HD springs, can't really remember. They lowered the car. At the time I installed them I had the car aligned, and the alig
- /html/6pack/2000-06/msg00136.html (6,928 bytes)
- 16. Re: RE; ride height & Tim Holbrook (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 16:11:20 -0400
- Also check with British Parts NW and Moss. The stiffer springs all around, along with uprated & "HD" shocks, will yield a nice flat-handling TR6. Add a larger front swaybar, but try to resist adding
- /html/6pack/2000-06/msg00150.html (6,853 bytes)
- 17. Re: rear anti-roll bar (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 20:53:53 -0400
- Wow, then I guess I should have been driving over potholes that are wide enough for both wheels. --
- /html/6pack/2000-06/msg00166.html (7,258 bytes)
- 18. Re: Trailing Arm Bushing Replacements - Help! (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:49:52 -0400
- A few winters ago I replaced the TA bushings in my '71. At that time, I bought a set of heavy-duty rubber bushings from TRF. They are harder than stock rubber bushings, and come with a steel bushing
- /html/6pack/2000-06/msg00190.html (8,904 bytes)
- 19. Re: Rear Spring Removal (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 08:25:10 -0400
- I've removed/replaced my rear springs a few times, but I cannot remember ever taking the hub or axle out. I think I had to rotate the axle, and push down on the trailing arm. There is not too much te
- /html/6pack/2000-05/msg00020.html (8,021 bytes)
- 20. Re: Bucking TR6 (score: 1)
- Author: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
- Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 09:56:27 -0400
- Possibly, your carbs are running out of gas because the fuel pump can't keep-up, or you may have a vapor-lock problem. Check if the gas line is heating-up from the engine or exhaust. Vapor lock was a
- /html/6pack/2000-05/msg00039.html (8,673 bytes)
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