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121. Re: clutch fork pins (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2003 07:04:42 -0400; Some like to file a flat on the pins, I have always installed them the way they came out of the package. The belief is by filing a flat you give the fork a more stable contact surface but I think if; /html/6pack/2003-10/msg00040.html (7,022 bytes)
122. Differential repair complete (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 23:18:37 -0400; Hi all, I spent most of this Saturday making the repairs to the dreaded differential mounts on my 75 TR6. As many owners have said in their posts , the passenger front mount was the culprit. The meta; /html/6pack/2003-10/msg00091.html (8,531 bytes)
123. Re: Drill bits and clutch fork -- Beginner question (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 23:01:37 -0400; Any good quality high speed drill bit will do. There are also "Split point" bits that have a better starting design then conventional bits. If you have trouble getting the bit to bite with out it wa; /html/6pack/2003-10/msg00109.html (7,201 bytes)
124. Re: Repairing the frame on a TR6 (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 07:20:39 -0400; There is a shop in Rhode Island, Auto Rust Technicians that specializes in this repair. They sell repair kits as well as swap out complete chassis. Here's the link. http://www.autorust.com/exampl2-i; /html/6pack/2003-10/msg00198.html (6,934 bytes)
125. Re: rear end noise (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 07:13:20 -0400; Hi Grant, Generally, a thumping or consistent noise that is in time with changing speed ends up being either the rear hub bearings or a U-joint. Inspect the U-joints for looseness or play. To check t; /html/6pack/2003-10/msg00210.html (6,830 bytes)
126. Re: Removing rear axle (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 19:26:09 -0400; Tim, That method works perfect. Just did exactly that the other day to change a U-joint. I'm not a big fan of laying under the car. A much more comfortable way of making this repair. -- Mitch Seff Oc; /html/6pack/2003-10/msg00373.html (7,099 bytes)
127. Re: Repair bill on diff. brackets (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:20:54 -0400; Funny this should be the topic of discussion. Just got under the car last night to find the cause of a squeak related to on/off power & discovered a partial split in the passenger side front diff mou; /html/6pack/2003-09/msg00239.html (8,185 bytes)
128. Differential mount bushings (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:43:54 -0400; I personally like the Polyurethane bushings for all applications but would like some feedback on their use for the diff mounts. I would imagine the less movement the better. Thanks -- Mitch Seff Ocea; /html/6pack/2003-09/msg00241.html (6,744 bytes)
129. Re: Headlight Conversion (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 14:23:21 -0400; The simplest & least expensive way to upgrade your headlights is to switch to a H6024 sealed beam. This is a Halogen 7" replacement unit that plugs right in and gives up to 50% more light. No expensi; /html/6pack/2003-09/msg00286.html (7,619 bytes)
130. Re: Differential mount bushings (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 07:19:00 -0400; I have to agree with you on this. Most of the responses I have received recommend the standard replacement bushings. As a matter of fact I just received the new replacement mount set & the rubber co; /html/6pack/2003-09/msg00339.html (7,315 bytes)
131. Re: Tube Shock Conversion (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 07:07:51 -0400; Actually Dick your right, My mom was the one who gave me the go ahead to by my first TR6 back in 1971 ( My Dad said it was a death trap ). So if it wasn't for her I might not have gotten bit with the; /html/6pack/2003-08/msg00042.html (7,536 bytes)
132. Door check strap color (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 14:07:21 -0400; Hey all, This might sound a little anal but I'm cleaning up the inside door sills and fixing a door check strap & I would like to know if the strap is plated or body color. Usually this wouldn't cros; /html/6pack/2003-08/msg00131.html (6,746 bytes)
133. Gotta love the list-Door check strap (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 18:40:42 -0400; Thanks to all who responded to my check strap color request. Next time not so quick, now I have no choice but to start painting. Thanks again. -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 http://www.angelfir; /html/6pack/2003-08/msg00134.html (6,724 bytes)
134. Re: Universal Joints (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 14:40:04 -0400; Hey Curt, U-joints are definitely an issue with clunks & strange driveline noises. One of the first things I did was to replace all the joints with Spicer brand parts. The common u-joints will do fin; /html/6pack/2003-08/msg00159.html (7,736 bytes)
135. Re: LITA Car Show (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 23:14:30 -0400; As a member of LITA I think I can speak for the entire club & say please be our guests. If you can drive it, push it, tow it or just come solo, your welcome. This should be a beautiful show with a h; /html/6pack/2003-08/msg00234.html (7,952 bytes)
136. Re: LITA Car Show (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 13:50:11 -0400; I'll bet you understand how to put a belt on a TR6 with a blower now ;-) -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 http://www.angelfire.com/ny4/triumph5/ /// 6pack@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try h; /html/6pack/2003-08/msg00274.html (7,714 bytes)
137. Re: Honda commercial (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 13:18:05 -0400; Good man Jim. Well put. If I want this bickering I'll go to work :-) -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 http://www.angelfire.com/ny4/triumph5/ /// 6pack@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http:; /html/6pack/2003-08/msg00306.html (6,741 bytes)
138. Re: door panel staples (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 22:18:31 -0400; It doesn't mater if the staples are to long, just bend them over & tap them flat with a small hammer (tack hammer). Besides once they are bent over they're more likely not to come loose. I would use; /html/6pack/2003-08/msg00318.html (7,126 bytes)
139. Re: A black TR6 (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 09:18:58 -0400; Out of curiosity, was there any particular reason black was not a basic available color? -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 http://www.angelfire.com/ny4/triumph5/ /// 6pack@autox.team.net mailing; /html/6pack/2003-08/msg00448.html (6,818 bytes)
140. Re: A black TR6 (score: 1): Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>; Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 07:23:05 -0400; Thanks Jonmac, I knew if any one would have a thorough explanation you would. You experience & knowledge is a precious commodity to the list. I'll look at these more flamboyant colors & understand th; /html/6pack/2003-08/msg00497.html (6,998 bytes)

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