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References: [ +from:jsnable@mac.com: 83 ]

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41. Re: regular or hardened lifters for stock cam? (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 20:21:30 -0700; I just wanted to update the list on the off-line replies I received regarding my potential cam swap. First, Vance recommended that I not just put the cam back in with new lifters, but have it regroun; /html/6pack/2003-08/msg00541.html (8,122 bytes)
42. Rear transmission seal - fixed! (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 14:57:29 -0700; I thought I would report back on my leaking transmission. I decided to try a speedi-sleeve, and it is working great after a few hours of driving around. I ordered it from Kragen, Chicago Rawhide #991; /html/6pack/2003-06/msg00017.html (6,561 bytes)
43. RE: Two TR250 issues (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 17:52:00 -0700; I can comment on the second symptom. In my case, white smoke while coasting (or especially decelerating) has been indicative of a lean mixture in the carbs. I believe that is what the bypass valves; /html/6pack/2003-06/msg00553.html (9,782 bytes)
44. Re: I've got a hole (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 15:41:00 -0700; I would try (ok, I have tried) some fiberglass/resin. The other thing that I have used is fiberglass cloth plus POR-15. Not as structural as using the resin, but it has held up well for small repairs; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00273.html (8,051 bytes)
45. rear transmission seal (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 20:07:46 -0700; I have a leaking rear seal that has not been solved with new seals or surfacing the flange. I was looking in the big 3 catalogs, and noticed that the flanges for the non-overdrive and A-type overdriv; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00361.html (6,826 bytes)
46. Re: Weak spark (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 08:50:22 -0700; My '73 does have a resistor wire. Measuring the voltage at the coil with the key "on" gives about 9V (with the car running it is about 11V). While cranking, the voltage will be boosted to 12+V (what; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00611.html (8,896 bytes)
47. Re: Valve Guide seals (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 10:40:42 -0700; I had seals added the last time the head was worked on. I use Kent double springs which seem to be fine. The seals are from some sort of BMW - don't know the measurements. I imagine any good machinis; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00660.html (7,360 bytes)
48. Re: stop lamp switch (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 21:16:24 -0700; The switch is closed when you depress the pedal, lighting the tail lights. When the pedal is up, it presses on the switch's plunger to open the circuit. In your case the switch must not be close enou; /html/6pack/2003-04/msg00329.html (8,125 bytes)
49. Re: Clutch items and ring gears (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 21:30:38 -0800; I'll add what I recently did to the list of options. Both my pedal and pushrod holes were worn, but not badly enough where enlarging them to 3/8" wouldn't round them out. I bought a 3/8" clevis pin a; /html/6pack/2003-03/msg00052.html (7,197 bytes)
50. Re: Flat black parts need painting on my '6...suggestions? (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 19:11:38 -0800; I painted both parts with Rustoleum Flat Black. Prepping consisted of filling in any dents or chips and sanding the area lightly. I first did it just to dress it up for the short term, but it lasted; /html/6pack/2003-03/msg00580.html (7,880 bytes)
51. Re: Embarrassingly absent-minded question (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:44:23 -0800; If it is the large hole like my TR6, which I believe it is, that is an oil galley plug hole. The original plug was an aluminum... hmmm, it's hard to describe. Basically just a threaded rod that was w; /html/6pack/2003-03/msg00813.html (7,893 bytes)
52. Re: Embarrassingly absent-minded answer (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 22:32:40 -0800; Oops! I should have stuck to doing my taxes. The 1 o'clock position should have made me wonder more, but it is indeed the oil pressure port (a lot smaller than the thing I was alluding to). My presen; /html/6pack/2003-03/msg00815.html (7,952 bytes)
53. Fwd: TR6 Top Installation (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 13:41:24 -0800; I still had it in my Trash...; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00005.html (6,984 bytes)
54. Moss electric fuel pump (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 18:43:30 -0800; I am considering changing over to an electric fuel pump and was wondering if anyone had experience with the one sold by Moss (and others I am sure). I am especially interested in the pressure output; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00407.html (7,108 bytes)
55. Re: Moss electric fuel pump (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 11:58:50 -0800; Thanks everybody for the suggestions. I like the oil pressure switch idea - I had thought about the cutoff issue after posting my first message. I also wanted to mention why I was thinking of switchi; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00431.html (7,754 bytes)
56. Re: Moss electric fuel pump/pressure regulator recall (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 09:06:47 -0800; Thanks for looking into this - you have made it farther than I have! I called around and found the pump at Napa, but the pressure regulator has been recalled. I don't know what the defect was, but I; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00470.html (7,525 bytes)
57. Re: Dash pot oil (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 20:19:24 -0800; There is an o-ring around the screw that is used to adjust the needle. I have replaced it a few times, and as I remember it, you remove the needle (back out the set screw and use jet tool to turn ful; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00506.html (8,657 bytes)
58. Re: Dash pot oil (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 07:16:51 -0800; Hi Don, Sorry, I was looking at Al's message about his '74 and didn't see your problem was with an earlier car - I don't know about the TR250/early TR6 setup with fixed needles. The Moss parts list d; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00521.html (10,027 bytes)
59. Re: vacuum advance (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 10:36:35 -0800; There is a fitting underneath the rear carb. Originally it would be connected to a thermostatic switch located in a fitting connected to the top radiator hose, which in turn was connected to the dist; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00654.html (6,918 bytes)
60. Re: Carbon Build-up (score: 1): Author: Jay Snable <jsnable@mac.com>; Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 09:13:29 -0800; I thought I would relay my intake valve experience. I had massive (and moist) build up that turned out to be caused by oil leaking down the valve guides. All was fine until I add some roller rockers.; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00732.html (8,258 bytes)

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