- 81. RE: clutch problem (score: 1)
- Author: Andrew Packard <apackard@triad.rr.com>
- Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 07:17:15 -0400
- You may actually need a new clutch, as the diaphram will wear. Sounds like it's time to spend some quality garage time pulling the tranny and checking things out. Master cylinder and slave cylinder r
- /html/6pack/2002-09/msg00186.html (7,146 bytes)
- 82. Rear differential paint (score: 1)
- Author: Andrew Packard <apackard@triad.rr.com>
- Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 06:52:27 -0400
- Does anyone know the proper paint scheme for the differential? I'm assuming the main body is painted the same black as the chassis, but is the rear cover a different color? I just want to get it righ
- /html/6pack/2002-09/msg00240.html (6,384 bytes)
- 83. RE: Whine in gearbox or differential? (score: 1)
- Author: Andrew Packard <apackard@triad.rr.com>
- Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 22:30:08 -0400
- I'm no expert, but I had a high whine vibration sound coming from either the tranny or the differential, too. Turns out the front R mounting pin of the differential had separated at its bracket and p
- /html/6pack/2002-09/msg00285.html (9,682 bytes)
- 84. RE: Clutch Bleeding (score: 1)
- Author: Andrew Packard <apackard@triad.rr.com>
- Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 23:08:17 -0400
- In my recent TR250 tranny rebuild, my mechanic welded the fork to the shaft in addition to replacing the pin since that area is notorious for problems. I pulled the tranny three times to get it rebui
- /html/6pack/2002-08/msg00377.html (8,617 bytes)
- 85. POR 15 (score: 1)
- Author: Andrew Packard <apackard@triad.rr.com>
- Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 23:14:05 -0400
- On July 4, I bought a "no rust" TR250 from a guy in Milwaukee and drove it back to North Carolina. After getting in and under it, there was plenty of body rust and lots of chassis issues including br
- /html/6pack/2002-08/msg00378.html (7,498 bytes)
- 86. RE: removing the flywheel (score: 1)
- Author: Andrew Packard <apackard@triad.rr.com>
- Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 22:48:06 -0400
- I used a long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar on one of the bolts and a 1/2 inch drive ratchet on the bolt I was removing. I ended up using gradual and steady pressure with my foot on the ratchet while th
- /html/6pack/2002-08/msg00403.html (7,727 bytes)
- 87. RE: Woe (score: 1)
- Author: Andrew Packard <apackard@triad.rr.com>
- Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 02:36:38 -0400
- Sounds like all of the above are possible causes. When is the last time the master and slave were rebuilt? It's an easy process for each and the parts don't cost much. What's the history of your clut
- /html/6pack/2002-08/msg00462.html (8,122 bytes)
- 88. RE: A little advice... (score: 1)
- Author: Andrew Packard <apackard@triad.rr.com>
- Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 02:43:56 -0400
- Minimally, the car has a front or rear seal that is hardened and needs replacing. If it's the rear seal, you can get to it from underneath by dropping the drive shaft and using a seal puller to remov
- /html/6pack/2002-08/msg00463.html (8,119 bytes)
- 89. Differential removal and pin strengthening kits (score: 1)
- Author: Andrew Packard <apackard@triad.rr.com>
- Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 00:14:12 -0400
- After five hours tonight, I got within one L Rear Diff mount from getting my differential dropped. The metal sleeve inside the rear rubber mount was frozen to the frame stud. I removed the nuts and b
- /html/6pack/2002-08/msg00560.html (7,856 bytes)
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