Sounds like all of the above are possible causes. When is the last time the
master and slave were rebuilt? It's an easy process for each and the parts
don't cost much. What's the history of your clutch? Pulling the tranny is
also a relatively easy thing to do, and with an old shaft to help with the
alignment (try to avoid the Moss plastic device), installing a new clutch is
also easy and not too expensive. Bleeding your hydraulics with fresh fluid
should probably be the first step. Even with the worst case scenario (bad
master and slave, bad clutch diaphragm), you should solve the problem in a
weekend. If the fork is cracked, replace it and get it welded to prevent the
same problem in the future. Keep your head up and keep your car on the road!
Andy
TR250
Greensboro, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: John Summers [SMTP:trumpet@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 1:05 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Woe
Woe is me. I was cruising along hardly reading the posts thinking that
because I don't drive my TR 6 more than 30 miles a week that trouble
wouldn't come to me. But it has. Today while out for a drive I had gone
about 4 miles and two stoplights and at the second light down went the
clutch. It springs back but even with pumping it it wouldn't come back. I
jammed it into first and did a U turn and high tailed it home. Got home and
pulled into the yard and had to shut the car off to put it into reverse,
restart to back up and the clutch was still partially engaged with the pedal
fully depressed.
Now I am fully depressed. Is this (A) the clutch fork worn, (B) the master
cylinder needing a rebuild, (C) the slave cylinder acting stupid or just a
bad dream:)
When I first got the car,,,the first drive after I bought it, it did this
and a guy repaired the fork and it worked pretty well for four years.
Like I said, I don't drive it much so wear isn't that big a suspect.
I guess we'll see.
Talk among yourselves and let me know.
John Summers
'74 TR 6
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