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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
thanks Scott. I realized, subsequent to sending this, that I am =
describing how use single stage paints, NOT clear coating over a base =
coat. To each their own, I don't personally think a clear coat paint =
job looks appropriate on a vintage car, but others will argue that =
forever. Again, who has the best marinara sauce?
Read this over again, and I noticed a few missed words and typos and =
punctuation omissions. Sorry . . . ya get what ya pay for, I guess! In =
case any poor soul is reading this for the first time, I tried to fix =
the errors.
Steve
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Scott Woolman=20
To: List for the Z Magnette Group - North America=20
Sent: Wednesday, December 25, 2013 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Zmagnette] Paint
Steve=20
Thank you. great info.
Scott
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 25, 2013, at 12:03 PM, "Steve Kirby" <skirby210@cox.net> wrote:
Scott--
You're right, you are going to get overwhelmed with opinions and =
ideas, and likely, most of them will be fine. I think prepping a car =
for a good paint job is a lot like being around a bunch of good cooks. =
They are all going to have different ways to make the best marinara =
sauce, but I betcha in the end, they will all be great.
If you want, I once put down on paper, for a fellow Club member, =
more-or-less how I've done it. But, I won't send it unless you want it. =
Like you've already correctly observed, you are likely to get =
overwhelmed.
The other thing I would "warn" you against is that I've often been =
around folks who insist you must use "brand X's ____________". That's =
BS. There's a lot of good companies out there, and as long as you are =
using compatible, QUALITY products, it (IMHO), doesn't matter a hoot =
which brand you use, and to an even more controversial opinion, you can =
even mix/match stages, as long as you are following the advice of =
someone who knows what the heck they are doing.
Thus, my one "ABSOLUTE" bit of advice would be to get hooked up with =
a quality auto body supplier in your area. Find the person who knows =
their stuff, AND STICK WITH THAT PERSON. If you are like a friend of =
mine who insists on shopping the best price for every little thing he =
needs, including on-line, and drive to each of 358 stores in the area to =
save 3 cents on a gallon of ________, then you will never build a good =
relationship/rapport with a person who can tell you how to substitute =
certain things for the more expensive things and save some real money, =
and can answer that question of " . . . why is my surfacer coming off" =
and those types of things. For an example, I do like PPG paint =
products, but they are very expensive. If you believe the advice of =
some, then you should use EVERYthing PPG . . . gosh, PPG abrasive paper, =
PPG measuring cups, PPG funnels, PPG lacquer thinner, PPG epoxy sealer, =
blah, blah, blah. You will know you are doing it right, when the CEO of =
PPG sends you a bottle of 50 yr. old Scotch for your birthday.
However, a good supplier will tell you that you can readily =
subsitute other (even) less expensive PPG products for some of the prep =
stages. Or gosh golly, even use a totally different brand of better =
surfacer, saving about $200 per gallon. I won't bore you with the names =
of what I use, 'cuz I live in CA, and we have things you can't buy (and =
probably don't want to buy . . . . $$$$), and you probably have access =
to a wider variety of products, no doubt at a reduced price.
In the briefest note possible, I'll throw this out there, and then =
everyone else can whack it to pieces. Based on the fact you said you're =
already down to mostly bare metal (Re-reading, this is far longer than I =
anticipated, but I still consider it a BRIEF summary!!!! This is a =
complex topic, IMHO!!!!)"
Use a self-etching, epoxy - catalytic sealer. No need nowadays to =
use a separate self-etching primer.
Do your initial repairs . . . . banging out, metal work, filling of =
deepest/worse areas. =20
Re-apply the self-etching, epoxy - catalytic sealer in any areas =
where you may have exposed bare metal. The idea is never to have actual =
bare metal . . . at this stage. If you've only got a few, very small =
bare areas, you might want to buy some self-etching sealer in a spray =
can. Tis expensive, about $18 for a large spray can, but it beats, =
sometimes, making up your spray gun, cleaning, etc.
Don't try and get the surface perfect yet. Use a good quality =
filler, if needed, and long boards or foam boards to around 120. The =
sealer you've applied thus far is really NOT "surfacer", it is not =
intended for a surface finish, in fact, it is not even intended to be =
"sanded" at all. Don't panic, you're no where's near done here . . . =
your filled repairs are still rough, and you no doubt still have =
scratchs, maybe even some very small dings.
Apply a good coat of a good quality surfacer. You get what you pay =
for. Super cheap surfacer is exactly that. Do NOT buy anything that =
claims to seal and surface (and cure cancer) in the same can.
Additional filler repairs can continue. If your repair is "almost" =
perfect, just needs a "wee bit" more, now you move up to what is =
commonly called a "skim" product, intended to be put no more than a =
1/16" or so thick, and mostly sanded off. The beauty of these products =
is that they go on much easier, and sand off so much easier. There are =
different "grades" of skim products, I actually use a third, very fine =
one . . . like if I see an air bubble, or a scratch. Don't fill these =
minor imperfections with your "basic filler" stuff . . . .it is too =
thick, too heavy, and too hard to get a fine surface when sanding. This =
is one of the biggest lessons I've learned, in the fairly recent past. =
You might be saying "OK, why not just use that "skim" stuff for the deep =
repairs?" 'Cuz it does not have the strength of the good filler =
products. Most filler products have some kind of reinforced fiberglass =
in them. One brand I would recommend is MarGlass . . . for a deep =
repair, where metalwork just has not totally worked. Normal depth =
repairs are done with a "regular" fill product, which your supplier can =
recommend. I have my favorites. You now commonly read in magazines =
that the entire car was skimmed. I don't do that, but I understand why =
. . .=20
Continue to apply surfacer as needed. You will keep moving up the =
"grit scale", to around 280 or so "dry".
Now, buy a spray can of "Guide coat", which you apply very lightly . =
. . creating a speckle/overspray kind of coat. Do not try to save $8 =
bucks here and use flat black spray paint. Did that once . . . not =
good. Now, using around 280 or so, either a long board or long foam =
piece, sand across contours, with 2 - 3 good strokes. Immediately, you =
will observe the low spots. How low? A tad bit? May be able to bring =
up with a heavy application of surfacer. Miss a ding or much deeper? =
May need to go back to filler or skim. I'm currently helping a Club =
member with his B. He had it professionally painted. Terrible paint =
job. I didn't want to say anything, but in short, no one guide coated =
that car. There are a dozen or so very visible dings just on the back =
end of the car. Sad.
Repeat the above steps until, when you guide coat, with only 2 - 3 =
strokes, it is perfect. Don't get "cute" and say "Oh, I can sand that =
black stuff out of there!!!!" Sure you can, but you're only cheating =
yourself.
Should, at any point, you hit bare metal, hit it with self-etching, =
epoxy - catalytic sealer
Once the guide coat is perfect, now lay in a supply of perhaps 320 =
(I usually skip the 320 stage), and 400 long pieces of wet-or-dry. Now, =
you proceed to wet sand the car. An empty spray bottle of water is =
helpful. Lots of water. When this stage is done, you go over the car =
with a good, strong light . . . looking for scratches or other =
imperfections. Never kid yourself that the color coat" will take care =
of it, or hide it." Actually, color coat will make most imperfections =
look far worse. Any problems, fix 'em now. You can buy a "variety" =
pack of the various shapes of the "new" foam blocks . . . highly =
recommeded.
Apply one final coat of self-etching, epoxy - catalytic sealer. =
This stuff is the "new" magic. It absolutely allows your color coat to =
bond. TRY to the color coat as quickly as possible to the application =
of the self-etching, epoxy - catalytic sealer -- with some brands, like =
within TEN minutes. Do NOT sand or abrade the self-etching, epoxy - =
catalytic sealer--you do NOT want to scratch or penetrate the =
self-etching, epoxy - catalytic sealer with anything like a scratch. =
Working alone, I find I can't do this step "properly" (meaning that =
quickly), but it still seems to work OK. The PPG rep would probably say =
otherwise.
One "trick" I might throw in here, is this: With the high cost of =
good paint, I will use a lesser quality paint, of the same type and =
color (duh) for things like the interior (all covred over anyway), =
inside fender wells, the boot, the engine bay, inside/under the =
boot/boonet lids, etc. Thus, I may only need 1 gallon of the really =
expensive stuff, and 1 gallon of the other. A local company, which is =
becoming huge, and has a huge online presence, is TCP Global. They make =
(I believe made by ValSpar . . . now a much bigger player in the auto =
refinishing business -- having bought out a few other companies =
recently) their own brand of polyurethane paint, totally compatible with =
things like PPG Concept, at about 1/4 the price. I find it easier to =
spray and work with than the good stuff! I'm tempted to do an entire =
car with it. We'll see . . . but I've already bought the PPG paint for =
the Magnette . . . so whatever car comes up after the Magnette!!!! =20
Spray the color coat . . . the easy part, actually, You've done all =
the hard work above. Put on plenty of paint (at least 3 - 4 "double" =
coats), so you have plenty to color sand/buff.
Color Sand
Buff
We'll cover those two stages later!
Collect your First place trophy
You might say "Wow, that is too much work. I'll just let a shop do =
it." Sure, most folks do, and you can get some great jobs out there. =
What I've observed so often, is that naturally, you don't want to spend =
more money than necessary, so the shop sounds good, and you go with =
them. Sometimes, the results are fantastic, and sometimes they are =
horrid. I've seen some great jobs at reasonable prices, and I've also =
seen some dowright awful jobs, where folks paid waaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyy =
too much money. There are some real craftsman out there, and there are =
some real hacks. If I was going to have a shop do it, I'd insist on =
seeing past customer's cars. Don't just listen to their speel. I'd =
make sure they list what they are going to do, step-by-step. I'd be =
dropping by often to make sure they are doing it. I want to say you are =
going to get what you pay for, but that doesn't always seem to be the =
case. I will say this: I've been asked to paint other people's cars. =
I simply can't/won't. I'm way too slow, and make mistakes. The cost of =
materials, for me, far exceeds what I see people getting their cars =
painted for. IF I was to paint a Magnette, which I will be doing one of =
these fine milleniums, which did not need extensive metal work, rust =
repair or welding, I would start at $10,000. I know you just flipped, =
but I think that is realistic for a really good paint job. =20
. . . and Happy Holidays.
#2SteveK
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Scott Woolman=20
To: List for the Z Magnette Group - North America=20
Sent: Wednesday, December 25, 2013 10:43 AM
Subject: [Zmagnette] Paint
At a risk of getting overwhelmed with opinions. Here is my =
question. My MG is down to metal all rust and body is done. Should I =
use an acrylic etching primer then a sandable primer.=20
Thanks
Scott =20
Sent from my iPhone
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------=_NextPart_000_0021_01CF033D.4B0A7A60
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23543"></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dauto bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>thanks Scott. I realized, subsequent to sending this, that I =
am=20
describing how use single stage paints, NOT clear coating over a base=20
coat. To each their own, I don't personally think a clear coat =
paint job=20
looks appropriate on a vintage car, but others will argue that =
forever. =20
Again, who has the best marinara sauce?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Read this over again, and I noticed a few missed words and =
typos and=20
punctuation omissions. Sorry . . . ya get what ya pay for, I =
guess! =20
In case any poor soul is reading this for the first time, I tried to fix =
the=20
errors.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Steve</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A title=3Dscottewoolman@hotmail.com=20
href=3D"mailto:scottewoolman@hotmail.com";>Scott Woolman</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dzmagnette@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:zmagnette@autox.team.net";>List for the Z Magnette Group =
- North=20
America</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, December 25, =
2013 9:46=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Zmagnette] =
Paint</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Steve </DIV>
<DIV>Thank you. great info.<BR>Scott<BR>Sent from my =
iPhone</DIV>
<DIV><BR>On Dec 25, 2013, at 12:03 PM, "Steve Kirby" <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:skirby210@cox.net";>skirby210@cox.net</A>> =
wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type=3D"cite">
<DIV>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23543">
<STYLE></STYLE>
<DIV>Scott--</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>You're right, you are going to get overwhelmed with opinions =
and ideas,=20
and likely, most of them will be fine. I think prepping a car =
for a=20
good paint job is a lot like being around a bunch of good =
cooks. They=20
are all going to have different ways to make the best marinara =
sauce, but I=20
betcha in the end, they will all be great.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If you want, I once put down on paper, for a fellow Club =
member,=20
more-or-less how I've done it. But, I won't send it unless you =
want=20
it. Like you've already correctly observed, you are likely to =
get=20
overwhelmed.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The other thing I would "warn" you against is that I've often =
been=20
around folks who insist you must use "brand X's ____________". =
That's=20
BS. There's a lot of good companies out there, and as long as =
you are=20
using compatible, QUALITY products, it (IMHO), doesn't matter a hoot =
which=20
brand you use, and to an even more controversial opinion, you can =
even=20
mix/match stages, as long as you are following the advice of someone =
who=20
knows what the heck they are doing.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thus, my one "ABSOLUTE" bit of advice would be to get hooked up =
with a=20
quality auto body supplier in your area. Find the person who =
knows=20
their stuff, AND STICK WITH THAT PERSON. If you are like =
a=20
friend of mine who insists on shopping the best price for every =
little thing=20
he needs, including on-line, and drive to each of 358 stores in the =
area to=20
save 3 cents on a gallon of ________, then you will never build a =
good=20
relationship/rapport with a person who can tell you how to =
substitute=20
certain things for the more expensive things and save some real =
money, and=20
can answer that question of " . . . why is my surfacer coming off" =
and those=20
types of things. For an example, I do like PPG paint products, =
but=20
they are very expensive. If you believe the advice of some, =
then you=20
should use EVERYthing PPG . . . gosh, PPG abrasive paper, PPG =
measuring=20
cups, PPG funnels, PPG lacquer thinner, PPG epoxy sealer, blah, =
blah,=20
blah. You will know you are doing it right, when the CEO of =
PPG sends=20
you a bottle of 50 yr. old Scotch for your birthday.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>However, a good supplier will tell you that you can readily =
subsitute=20
other (even) less expensive PPG products for some of the prep =
stages. =20
Or gosh golly, even use a totally different brand of better =
surfacer, saving=20
about $200 per gallon. I won't bore you with the names of what =
I use,=20
'cuz I live in CA, and we have things you can't buy (and probably =
don't want=20
to buy . . . . $$$$), and you probably have access to a wider =
variety=20
of products, no doubt at a reduced price.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In the briefest note possible, I'll throw this out there, and =
then=20
everyone else can whack it to pieces. Based on the fact you =
said=20
you're already down to mostly bare metal (Re-reading, this is far =
longer=20
than I anticipated, but I still consider it a BRIEF =
summary!!!! This=20
is a complex topic, IMHO!!!!)"</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Use a self-etching, epoxy - catalytic sealer. No need =
nowadays to=20
use a separate self-etching primer.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Do your initial repairs . . . . banging out, metal work, =
filling of=20
deepest/worse areas. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Re-apply the self-etching, epoxy - catalytic sealer in any =
areas where=20
you may have exposed bare metal. The idea is <U>never </U>to =
have=20
actual bare metal . . . at this stage. If you've only got a =
few, very=20
small bare areas, you might want to buy some self-etching =
sealer in a=20
spray can. Tis expensive, about $18 for a large spray can, but =
it=20
beats, sometimes, making up your spray gun, cleaning, etc.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Don't try and get the surface perfect yet. Use a good =
quality=20
filler, if needed, and long boards or foam boards to around =
120. The=20
sealer you've applied thus far is really NOT "surfacer", it is not =
intended=20
for a surface finish, in fact, it is not even intended to be =
"sanded" at=20
all. Don't panic, you're no where's near done here . . . your =
filled=20
repairs are still rough, and you no doubt still have scratchs, maybe =
even=20
some very small dings.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Apply a good coat of a good quality surfacer. You get =
what you=20
pay for. Super cheap surfacer is exactly that. Do NOT =
buy=20
anything that claims to seal and surface (and cure cancer) in the =
same=20
can.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Additional filler repairs can continue. If your repair is =
"almost" perfect, just needs a "wee bit" more, now you move up to =
what is=20
commonly called a "skim" product, intended to be put no more than a =
1/16" or=20
so thick, and mostly sanded off. The beauty of these products =
is that=20
they go on much easier, and sand off so much easier. There are =
different "grades" of skim products, I actually use a third, very =
fine one .=20
. . like if I see an air bubble, or a scratch. Don't fill =
these minor=20
imperfections with your "basic filler" stuff . . . .it is too thick, =
too=20
heavy, and too hard to get a fine surface when sanding. This =
is one of=20
the biggest lessons I've learned, in the fairly recent past. =
You might=20
be saying "OK, why not just use that "skim" stuff for the deep=20
repairs?" 'Cuz it does not have the strength of the good =
filler=20
products. Most filler products have some kind of reinforced =
fiberglass=20
in them. One brand I would recommend is MarGlass . . . for a =
deep=20
repair, where metalwork just has not totally worked. Normal =
depth=20
repairs are done with a "regular" fill product, which your supplier =
can=20
recommend. I have my favorites. You now commonly read in =
magazines that the entire car was skimmed. I don't do that, =
but I=20
understand why . . . </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Continue to apply surfacer as needed. You will keep =
moving up the=20
"grit scale", to around 280 or so "dry".</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Now, buy a spray can of "Guide coat", which you apply very =
lightly . .=20
. creating a speckle/overspray kind of coat. Do not try to =
save $8=20
bucks here and use flat black spray paint. Did that once . . . =
not=20
good. Now, using around 280 or so, either a long board or long =
foam=20
piece, sand across contours, with 2 - 3 good strokes. =
Immediately, you=20
will observe the low spots. How low? A tad bit? =
May be=20
able to bring up with a heavy application of surfacer. Miss a =
ding or=20
much deeper? May need to go back to filler or skim. I'm=20
currently helping a Club member with his B. He had it =
professionally=20
painted. Terrible paint job. I didn't want to say =
anything, but=20
in short, no one guide coated that car. There are a dozen or =
so very=20
visible dings just on the back end of the car. Sad.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Repeat the above steps until, when you guide coat, with only 2 =
- 3=20
strokes, it is perfect. Don't get "cute" and say "Oh, I can =
sand that=20
black stuff out of there!!!!" Sure you can, but you're only =
cheating=20
yourself.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Should, at any point, you hit bare metal, hit it with =
self-etching,=20
epoxy - catalytic sealer</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Once the guide coat is perfect, now lay in a supply of perhaps =
320 (I=20
usually skip the 320 stage), and 400 long pieces of =
wet-or-dry. Now,=20
you proceed to wet sand the car. An empty spray bottle of =
water is=20
helpful. Lots of water. When this stage is done, you go =
over the=20
car with a good, strong light . . . looking for scratches or other=20
imperfections. Never kid yourself that the color coat" will =
take care=20
of it, or hide it." Actually, color coat will make most =
imperfections=20
look far worse. Any problems, fix 'em now. You can buy a =
"variety" pack of the various shapes of the "new" foam blocks . . . =
highly=20
recommeded.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Apply one final coat of self-etching, epoxy - catalytic =
sealer. =20
This stuff is the "new" magic. It absolutely allows your color =
coat to=20
bond. TRY to the color coat as quickly as possible to the =
application=20
of the self-etching, epoxy - catalytic sealer -- with some brands, =
like=20
within TEN minutes. Do NOT sand or abrade the self-etching, =
epoxy -=20
catalytic sealer--you do NOT want to scratch or penetrate the =
self-etching,=20
epoxy - catalytic sealer with anything like a scratch. Working =
alone,=20
I find I can't do this step "properly" (meaning that quickly), but =
it still=20
seems to work OK. The PPG rep would probably say =
otherwise.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>One "trick" I might throw in here, is this: With the high =
cost of=20
good paint, I will use a lesser quality paint, of the same type and =
color=20
(duh) for things like the interior (all covred over anyway), inside =
fender=20
wells, the boot, the engine bay, inside/under the boot/boonet lids,=20
etc. Thus, I may only need 1 gallon of the really expensive =
stuff, and=20
1 gallon of the other. A local company, which is becoming =
huge, and=20
has a huge online presence, is TCP Global. They make (I=20
believe made by ValSpar . . . now a much bigger player in =
the auto=20
refinishing business -- having bought out a few other companies =
recently)=20
their own brand of polyurethane paint, totally compatible with =
things like=20
PPG Concept, at about 1/4 the price. I find it easier to spray =
and=20
work with than the good stuff! I'm tempted to do an entire car =
with=20
it. We'll see . . . but I've already bought the PPG paint for =
the=20
Magnette . . . so whatever car comes up after the Magnette!!!! =
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Spray the color coat . . . the easy part, actually, =
You've done=20
all the hard work above. Put on plenty of paint (at least 3 - =
4=20
"double" coats), so you have plenty to color sand/buff.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Color Sand</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Buff</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>We'll cover those two stages later!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Collect your First place trophy</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>You might say "Wow, that is too much work. I'll just let =
a shop=20
do it." Sure, most folks do, and you can get some great jobs =
out=20
there. What I've observed so often, is that naturally, you =
don't want=20
to spend more money than necessary, so the shop sounds good, and you =
go with=20
them. Sometimes, the results are fantastic, and sometimes they =
are=20
horrid. I've seen some great jobs at reasonable =
prices,=20
and I've also seen some dowright awful jobs, where folks paid=20
waaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyy too much money. There are some real =
craftsman=20
out there, and there are some real hacks. If I was going to =
have a=20
shop do it, I'd insist on seeing past customer's cars. Don't =
just=20
listen to their speel. I'd make sure they list what they are =
going to=20
do, step-by-step. I'd be dropping by often to make sure they =
are doing=20
it. I want to say you are going to get what you pay for, but =
that=20
doesn't always seem to be the case. I will say this: =
I've been=20
asked to paint other people's cars. I simply =
can't/won't. I'm=20
way too slow, and make mistakes. The cost of materials, for =
me, far=20
exceeds what I see people getting their cars painted for. IF I =
was to=20
paint a Magnette, which I will be doing one of these fine =
milleniums, which=20
did not need extensive metal work, rust repair or welding, I would =
start at=20
$10,000. I know you just flipped, but I think that is =
realistic for a=20
really good paint job. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> . . . and Happy Holidays.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>#2SteveK</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- =
</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A title=3Dscottewoolman@hotmail.com=20
href=3D"mailto:scottewoolman@hotmail.com";>Scott Woolman</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dzmagnette@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:zmagnette@autox.team.net";>List for the Z Magnette =
Group -=20
North America</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, December =
25, 2013=20
10:43 AM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Zmagnette] =
Paint</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>At a risk of getting overwhelmed with opinions. =
Here is my=20
question. My MG is down to metal all rust and body is done. =
Should I=20
use an acrylic etching primer then a sandable primer.=20
<BR>Thanks<BR>Scott <BR><BR>Sent from my=20
=
iPhone<BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Zmagnette=20
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R></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE type=3D"cite">
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