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Hi Tim,
Lots of good advice in the responses. I'll add a little of my own- First,
if I were starting this project I'd try to determine the thickness of the
paint in question. There are tools you can use to test to determine if
sanding is possible without removing too much. Then I'd consider an
attempt to correct the finish with cutting, buffing, and polishing which
might bring it back to an acceptable level. If not, move on to the wet
sanding. Best of luck.
Gil
On Wed, Feb 8, 2023 at 12:35 PM JIM UNDERWOOD via Wpta <wpta@autox.team.net>
wrote:
> You need to know exactly what you are working with. A typical base/clear
> can be sanded an buffed but you still run a risk depending on how thick the
> clear is. When planning a sand and buff, an extra coat of clear is usually
> applied. A single stage can also be sanded and buffed if it's a solid
> color (no metallic). If you sand through coats of a metallic, it will
> look like the rings on a tree. The comparison to a boat is a whole
> different deal. They have a gel coat that is polyester resin and is the
> same as the resin used in the glass layup. It gets sprayed into the mold
> first and is WAY thicker than a conventional paint job. You may have a
> time finding a shop willing to do this as it would be hard to know what
> they are working with.
>
> On 02/07/2023 6:34 AM Tim Prell via Wpta <wpta@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Can any members provide a referral for an auto body shop or detailer in
> the Cranberry or Pittsburgh area that has good results wet sanding a paint
> job to create a better finish? I was a doubter in the past but saw how it
> brought a 20 year-old ski boat back to new condition and might try it on
> one of my vintage cars.
>
> thanks,
> Tim
> _______________________________________________
> wpta@autox.team.net
>
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>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Tim,<div><br></div><div>Lots of good advice in the resp=
onses.=C2=A0 I'll add a little of my own-=C2=A0 First, if I were starti=
ng this project I'd try to determine=C2=A0the thickness of the paint in=
question.=C2=A0 There are tools you can use to test to determine if sandin=
g is possible without removing too much.=C2=A0 Then I'd consider an att=
empt to correct the finish with cutting, buffing, and polishing which might=
bring it back to an acceptable level.=C2=A0 If not, move on to the wet san=
ding.=C2=A0 Best of luck.</div><div><br></div><div>Gil=C2=A0</div></div><br=
><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, F=
eb 8, 2023 at 12:35 PM JIM UNDERWOOD via Wpta <<a href=3D"mailto:wpta@au=
tox.team.net">wpta@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rg=
b(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><u></u>
=20
=20
=20
<div>
<div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51,51,51)">
<span id=3D"m_-2347935831478747749_mce_caret"><span style=3D"font-family=
:helvetica;font-size:12pt">You need to know exactly what you are working wi=
th.=C2=A0 A typical base/clear can be sanded an buffed but you still run a =
risk depending on how thick the clear is. When planning a sand and buff, an=
extra coat of clear is usually applied.=C2=A0 A single stage can also be s=
anded and buffed if it's a solid color (no metallic).=C2=A0 =C2=A0If yo=
u sand through coats of a metallic, it will look like the rings on a tree.=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0The comparison to a boat is a whole different deal.=C2=A0 They=
have a gel coat that is polyester resin and is the same as the resin used =
in the glass layup.=C2=A0 It gets sprayed into the mold first and is WAY th=
icker than a conventional paint job.=C2=A0 You may have a time finding a sh=
op willing to do this as it would be hard to know what they are working wit=
h.=C2=A0=C2=A0</span></span>
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51,51,51)">
<span style=3D"font-family:helvetica;font-size:12pt"><br></span>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
On 02/07/2023 6:34 AM Tim Prell via Wpta <<a href=3D"mailto:wpta@aut=
ox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">wpta@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:
</div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
Can any members provide a referral for an auto body shop or detailer in=
the Cranberry or Pittsburgh area that has good results wet sanding a paint=
job to create a better finish? I was a doubter in the past but saw how it =
brought a 20 year-old ski boat back to new condition and might try it on on=
e of my vintage cars.
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div>
thanks,
</div>
<div>
Tim
</div>
</div>_______________________________________________
<br><a href=3D"mailto:wpta@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">wpta@autox.=
team.net</a>
<br>
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<br>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
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</blockquote></div>
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