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Re: Boiling Point of Water

To: "Dave Lapham" <Dave_Lapham@oakqm3.sps.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Boiling Point of Water
From: Brian Evans <brian@uunet.ca>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 11:14:57 -0400
At 12:56 PM 7/8/96 -0400, you wrote:
>        Reply to:   RE>Boiling Point of Water
>
>On: 7/7/96   JHarkness@aol.com wrote: 
>
>>  I'm looking for the pressure/temperature relationship for water.  
>> More specifically, what happens to boiling point as I switch from 
>> a 7 pound radiator cap to a 13 pound cap in my TR3?  (No anti-freeze). 
> 
>Quite seriously, what might happen is that the radiator may split it's
>seams unless you've done something extraordinary to beef it up.  
> 
>  --  Dave Lapham     Austin, TX     HEALEY@OAKHILL.sps.mot.com
> 
>
>On my Midget, I use the normal 7# cap, as it has a radiator design that is
already marginal in terms of bursting (it is quite bulged just using the
normal cap).  On my Cooper-S, when it had the early rad, I used a sealing
type cap on the rad, and ran a tube to an expansion tank from an MGB that
had a 13# cap.  That worked just fine.

I find that the midget tends to start to blow water at about 230 deg if it's
over-filled.  I can race with it at 220 deg if it's at the right fill level
and not lose any water, so it seems ok to me.  I made two modifications that
reduced my normal temp from 220 to 170, at very low cost - I plumbed in a
heater core to the heater circuit, and put it up front in the airstream, and
I added Red Line Water Wetter, which worked just as advertised.

Cheers, Brian Evans


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