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If he is using LED headlights that is unnecessary
-------- Original message --------
From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi@yahoo.com>
Date: 12/1/21 1:14 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Tim Gaines <mtgaines@presby.edu>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: gauge LEDs and headlight switches
One thing I have heard is to go in through the ash tray but never tried it =
myself. Also I would highly recommend the Moss headlight relay kit if you h=
ave not already installed. Easy to hook up and pulls a lot of power away fr=
om the switches.
Robert
On Wednesday, December 1, 2021, 11:53:00 AM EST, Tim Gaines <mtgaines@presb=
y.edu> wrote:
Despite some difficulties I'm making progress in installing LiteZupp LEDs i=
nto the instruments in my 1974 LHD TR6. The difficulties stem from my (poss=
ibly foolish) decision to do the job without removing the dash. With the he=
lp of a couple of long-reach needle nose pliers I've replaced the two illum=
ination bulbs in each of the speedo and tach and the single ones in the tem=
perature and oil pressure gauges, not without several scrapes to my fingers=
. However, I really don't think that will work with the fuel and temperatur=
e gauges on the right. There are just too many obstacles, so something is g=
oing to have to be removed, likely either the radio or the glove box or bot=
h. It looks to me as if the glove box space would provide the best access, =
but I have read of some difficulties in getting it back in place after remo=
val. I would appreciate any advice from those who have done these bulb repl=
acements or taken out the glove box.
In the process of doing this bulb job I came across another problem. The ne=
w LED for the high beam indicator just wouldn't light, and it didn't matter=
which of the new LEDs I put in. So I went back to the old incandescent bul=
b and it didn't light either despite having worked a short time earlier. Af=
ter checking the wiring to the socket and finding no issues I decided that =
the problem must be the iffy headlight dimmer switch on the right side of t=
he steering column. I say "iffy" because occasionally I had found that swit=
ching to high beam left me with no headlights at all! I took off the plasti=
c cowlings and got access to the switch though I couldn't pull it out becau=
se its wires are clamped within a channel under the steering column. Nevert=
heless, I could pivot the switch out to get a narrow view of its innards an=
d insert the thin nozzle from a can of WD40, hoping for a lucky fix. The re=
sult was that the switch, when re-attached with its retaining screws, would=
now pivot toward me, something it never would do before. With the battery =
re-attached as well, that pivot action produced a high beam flash that also=
lit the beam indicator! I never knew I had a high beam flash in this old c=
ar! So, everything was fixed!? Not so much. The light switch on the dash wo=
uldn't give me headlights at all despite the fact that it would give me int=
erior lights and the other exterior ones.
It was time to get out Dan Masters' guide to electronics, and as always wit=
h this manual, I now understand the circuitry and my remaining problem. Whe=
n everything is working, the flash function of the dimmer switch takes volt=
age from a fuse to the high beams directly regardless of whether the light =
switch on the dash is set for headlights. When the dash switch is set for h=
eadlights the voltage is taken directly from the battery to the column swit=
ch that determines whether low or high beams are activated. In following Ma=
sters' troubleshooting steps, I found that my dash light switch was bad. It=
must have failed as I repeatedly flipped it off and on to test all the new=
LEDs going in! I removed it, verified with a meter that it was bad but man=
aged to clean it up inside, and it now tests okay. Today I plan to spray so=
me electronic contact cleaner (not just WD40) into the dimmer switch and ho=
pe that all of its settings will work okay after I put the dash switch back=
in.
I'm sorry for the diversion into headlights. What I really want to know now=
is how to get those last two gauges illuminated with new LEDs.
Tim
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archiv=
e
dolphi@yahoo.com
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archiv=
e
teer.com
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<div dir=3D"auto">If he is using LED headlights that is unnecessary
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi@yahoo.com> </div>
<div>Date: 12/1/21 1:14 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
<div>To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Tim Gaines <mtgaines@presby.edu> </=
div>
<div>Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: gauge LEDs and headlight switches </div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;">
<div class=3D"PlainText">One thing I have heard is to go in through the ash=
tray but never tried it myself. Also I would highly recommend the Moss hea=
dlight relay kit if you have not already installed. Easy to hook up and pul=
ls a lot of power away from the switches. <br>
<br>
Robert<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On Wednesday, December 1, 2021, 11:53:00 AM EST, Tim Gaines <mtgaines@pr=
esby.edu> wrote:
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Despite some difficulties I'm making progress in installing LiteZupp LEDs i=
nto the instruments in my 1974 LHD TR6. The difficulties stem from my (poss=
ibly foolish) decision to do the job without removing the dash. With the he=
lp of a couple of long-reach needle
nose pliers I've replaced the two illumination bulbs in each of the speedo=
and tach and the single ones in the temperature and oil pressure gauges, n=
ot without several scrapes to my fingers. However, I really don't think tha=
t will work with the fuel and temperature
gauges on the right. There are just too many obstacles, so something is go=
ing to have to be removed, likely either the radio or the glove box or both=
. It looks to me as if the glove box space would provide the best access, b=
ut I have read of some difficulties
in getting it back in place after removal. I would appreciate any advice f=
rom those who have done these bulb replacements or taken out the glove box.=
<br>
<br>
In the process of doing this bulb job I came across another problem. The ne=
w LED for the high beam indicator just wouldn't light, and it didn't matter=
which of the new LEDs I put in. So I went back to the old incandescent bul=
b and it didn't light either despite
having worked a short time earlier. After checking the wiring to the socke=
t and finding no issues I decided that the problem must be the iffy headlig=
ht dimmer switch on the right side of the steering column. I say "iffy=
" because occasionally I had found that
switching to high beam left me with no headlights at all! I took off the p=
lastic cowlings and got access to the switch though I couldn't pull it out =
because its wires are clamped within a channel under the steering column. N=
evertheless, I could pivot the switch
out to get a narrow view of its innards and insert the thin nozzle from a =
can of WD40, hoping for a lucky fix. The result was that the switch, when r=
e-attached with its retaining screws, would now pivot toward me, something =
it never would do before. With the
battery re-attached as well, that pivot action produced a high beam flash =
that also lit the beam indicator! I never knew I had a high beam flash in t=
his old car! So, everything was fixed!? Not so much. The light switch on th=
e dash wouldn't give me headlights
at all despite the fact that it would give me interior lights and the othe=
r exterior ones. <br>
<br>
It was time to get out Dan Masters' guide to electronics, and as always wit=
h this manual, I now understand the circuitry and my remaining problem. Whe=
n everything is working, the flash function of the dimmer switch takes volt=
age from a fuse to the high beams
directly regardless of whether the light switch on the dash is set for hea=
dlights. When the dash switch is set for headlights the voltage is taken di=
rectly from the battery to the column switch that determines whether low or=
high beams are activated. In following
Masters' troubleshooting steps, I found that my dash light switch was bad.=
It must have failed as I repeatedly flipped it off and on to test all the =
new LEDs going in! I removed it, verified with a meter that it was bad but =
managed to clean it up inside, and
it now tests okay. Today I plan to spray some electronic contact cleaner (=
not just WD40) into the dimmer switch and hope that all of its settings wil=
l work okay after I put the dash switch back in.<br>
<br>
I'm sorry for the diversion into headlights. What I really want to know now=
is how to get those last two gauges illuminated with new LEDs.<br>
<br>
Tim <br>
** triumphs@autox.team.net **<br>
<br>
ate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs";>http://www.team=
.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archi=
ve">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/robertrudolphi@yahoo.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/robertrudolphi@yahoo.com</a>=
<br>
** triumphs@autox.team.net **<br>
<br>
ate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs";>http://www.team=
.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive";>http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/dave@ranteer.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave@ranteer.com</a><br>
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