Ditto on Mark's cure for dimpled pan holes. Only would add that I used a small
ball peen hammer on the side with the rib and another hammer on the other side.
Tapped gently but firmly.
Also ditto on The Right Stuff. Used it for my TR3 rebuilds and this month for
a tractor rebuild. Works great.
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire
> On March 29, 2020 at 9:06 AM Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:
>
>
> I've not turned a wrench for quite some time, so not sure of the stuff I
> will recommend is still made or has been replaced by newer
> formulations. I started using Permatex The Right Stuff as sump and
> valve cover 'gaskets' that sealed well and were reusable.
>
> First off, spend some time making sure the block mating surface is
> FLAT. Usually people overtighten the pan bolts, and the flange warps
> around the bolt hole, leaving little dimples like  ___/ \___  I use an
> auto body hammer to tap these down, hitting against a piece of steel rod
> with a flat end. Easy enough to make one of a proper size if you have a
> lathe in your garage and know how to use it. Otherwise a file taken to
> the end of an appropriate sized bolt will suffice as a suitable anvil.Â
> An awkward and time consuming procedure, but if done right it only needs
> to be done once during the time you own the car. And don't overtighten
> the bolts! This is a case where more is NOT better. If it leaks and you
> tighten the bolts more it will leak even worse.
>
> Once the mating surface is flat and clean, do as Paul T. described with
> the appropriate goo.
>
> mjb.
>
>
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