personally I don't even use a gasket anymore.
Layout a piece of wax paper stretched tight and flat, preferably on a
glass top surface (super flat)
After a REALLY good cleaning of (and flattening etc) of the gasket surface.
Apply a wide, thick bead of silicone to the pan.
Place the pan bead side down on the wax paper. Do not press it down,
other than to get the bead the fill the width of the pan lip.
I place tooth picks at a tangent across the outer corners to stop the
weight of the pan from completely squishing out (thinning) the silicon
bead. Let it dry. Let it dry WELL! You can trim off any 'blowout'
after it dries.
The wax paper will readily peel away, leaving a super flat surface to
mate to the bottom of the engine block, leaving a semi-permanent
silicone gasket attached to the pan. Cleanup your bolt holes as needed.
You won't need to torque down the pan much either to get a good seal.
I've been doing this on my pans as well as rocker covers for years. My
rocker cover has been off at least 15 times and I've never needed to
attend to the embedded gasket other than to wipe it down and apply a new
thin smear of Blue Hylomar before re-installation.
jfft  tmmv
ptegler
On 3/28/2020 8:22 PM, Dean Mericas wrote:
> Iâ??m resealing the engine and transmission on my TR4 after 20 years of
> reliable service.
>
> Today I had a massive failure installing the sump gasket using Hylotyte
> Red100 sealant. It seems to have weakened the gasket to the point that it
> tore around several bolt holes as I torqued the bolts.
>
> Plan B is to thoroughly clean the mating surfaces and use Permatex Ultra
> Gray, which Iâ??ve generally had good luck with on my Alfa Romeos.
>
> Before I do that, I wanted to see if any of you can recommend other sealants
> for this purpose. I only want to do it one more time.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dean
> 1965 TR-4
> Sent from my iPad
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net www.teglerizer.com
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