1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage
regulator, but could be the generator.
2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function
isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the
ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and
the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold
engine.
Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan
--------- Original Message --------- Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this
is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things:
Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on
all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is
slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there
be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the
pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the
slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word )
The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi. Does this
collective like that?
David
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