Just by way of comment - when I do a re-torque I use a paint pen on the
stud and the nut so when I am done I can see how much each nut moved. No
idea what to do with that info, just find it interesting to know.
Geo
On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 11:46 PM Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> > this makes no sense. To get it hot it has to run, but one
> > wouldn't run it without it being torqued down especially with
> > wet liners.
>
> Which is why they call it RE-torque. Initial torque done cold, retorque
> done hot.
>
> The TR3A owner's manual actually specifies retorque hot, although that
> particular item was left out of the TR4-4A manuals. Instead, you were
> supposed to return to the dealer for the initial service.
>
> That said, I've never been able to tell that it made any difference. The
> steel studs expand at almost exactly the same rate as the cast iron head,
> so
> the only difference would be the relatively thin head gasket. I suspect
> the
> whole hot/cold thing has more to do with convenience (not having to wait
> for
> the engine to cool when brought to the dealer for initial service) than
> anything.
>
> For cast iron heads, anyway. Alloy heads expand much faster than the steel
> studs, which is why it's important they be retorqued cold.
>
> -- Randall
>
>
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