<div dir="ltr">Just by way of comment - when I do a re-torque I use a paint pen on the stud and the nut so when I am done I can see how much each nut moved. No idea what to do with that info, just find it interesting to know.<div><br></div><div>Geo</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr">On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 11:46 PM Randall <<a href="mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com">tr3driver@ca.rr.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">> this makes no sense. To get it hot it has to run, but one <br>
> wouldn't run it without it being torqued down especially with <br>
> wet liners. <br>
<br>
Which is why they call it RE-torque. Initial torque done cold, retorque<br>
done hot.<br>
<br>
The TR3A owner's manual actually specifies retorque hot, although that<br>
particular item was left out of the TR4-4A manuals. Instead, you were<br>
supposed to return to the dealer for the initial service.<br>
<br>
That said, I've never been able to tell that it made any difference. The<br>
steel studs expand at almost exactly the same rate as the cast iron head, so<br>
the only difference would be the relatively thin head gasket. I suspect the<br>
whole hot/cold thing has more to do with convenience (not having to wait for<br>
the engine to cool when brought to the dealer for initial service) than<br>
anything.<br>
<br>
For cast iron heads, anyway. Alloy heads expand much faster than the steel<br>
studs, which is why it's important they be retorqued cold.<br>
<br>
-- Randall <br>
<br>
<br>
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