Terry --
I used the bullet connectors on the resistor to plug into a 4 wire connector
(ie, provision for 2 wires in and 2 wires out) (Moss p/n 161-600, TRF p/n
LUCWB301, VB p/n 14-968 - see I don't play favorites) In any case, they're
under a buck wherever you get them and they look "factory" when you're done.
Nothing screams "owner-bodge" like a soldered joint covered in electrical tape
like the Mummy!
Tom
> On May 2, 2018 at 10:37 AM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Thank you, Geo and Randall. I've ordered the resistors. I take it these
> are soldered in-line between between the turn signal switch and where the
> splice is made for front and back for each, left and right, turn signals? Is
> there a favorite place to tie into?
>
> > > On May 2, 2018 at 9:55 AM Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 3:04 PM, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net
> > mailto:terryrs at comcast.net > wrote:
> >
> > > > >
> > > Tom and Dave, thank you. Are you saying that you use a
> > > regular flasher unit with the ballast resistor, and that will allow not
> > > only the LED's to work, but also the turn signal indicator light on the
> > > dash?
> > >
> > > > >
> > That is what I did. I used connectors to permit a no-cut
> > connection to the original harness. Mounted magnets to the resistors so I
> > could tuck them out of the way (e.g. on the inner wing, under the apron):
> >
> >
> > Connects from a multiple bullet connector to any handy ground.
> >
> > Geo
> >
> > >
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>
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