That is can interesting question of why one coil was failing at high RPM while
the other didn't.
Assuming both are in proper operating condition, then I would expect that the
one that can't sustain high RPM has a lot more inductance than the one that
worked ok
As a matter of fact, the "high voltage" coils probably get that extra oomph by
having higher inductance. The price you pay for high inductance is that it
takes longer to "charge" the magnetic field of the coil. So, there is a
steeper drop off of output voltage vs RPM.
Do you have the specs on the two coils? Btw the resistance of the secondary
windings also has an influence. So does the resistance of the primary windings
though I am assuming both are 3 ohm.
-Tony
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 19, 2015, at 1:00 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2015 14:26:04 -0400
> From: Jason Sukey <jsukey@gmail.com>
> To: auprichard@uprichard.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 coil question
> Message-ID:
> <CAMmo4o-UUO+VMFaKgUCjZiOEQHs1zfsV6fArUq9C+eKQ8s-Mzw@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Andrew,
> Not TR3 related, but I've had to play around with coils on my modified
> GT6 using the 123 distributor (USB tune model). After a lot of fiddling, I
> found that with the recommended Bosch "blue" coil, it would "go flat" at
> high rpms when I was accelerating hard. (this is compared to points dizzy
> with a hot coil).
> I ended up with the Bosch "red" coil (made in Brazil model, I'm told the
> made in Mexico version is of lesser quality). This solved my problems and
> it once again is happy to pull strong up to 7,000 RPM's.
>
> My theory is that the lower voltage "Blue" coil is fine for stock
> applications, but isn't enough for higher performance use.
>
> Jason
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