Listerati:
I have read in the archives, regarding re-installation of the TR head,
several recommendations on torquing the head per Haynes (or other)
instructions, and then re-torquing when the engine is hot, and again,
after 200 or 500 miles.
Neither my Triumph Manual nor Mr Haynes make mention of re-torquing
when hot, or after a distance covered.
Is this, though, this list's recommendation, borne of experience?
If it matters, I am using a Payen copper gasket, and will coat it with
copper spray. My bolts have clean threads and will be lubed to help
provide an accurate torque.
In re-torquing, if that is what I am to do, do you back the nut off
and bring it back up to the torque value? (Sorry to ask yet another
dumb question.)
I have a fun day tomorrow. I am reinstalling a head with
professionally cut 3-angle valve seats, an amateurly performed, but
careful and earnest 'port and polish' (me) to my car that hasn't seen
the outside of my garage in 6 or 8 weeks, since I broke a pushrod in
June. In this rebuilding process, I learned that this head was cut
long ago to increase compression to 10.5, as I have discovered in
buretting the combustion chambers. I knew this car had some zip, now I
know why ;^)
In this rebuild, I have converted to the slim-stem exhaust valves,
removed casting faults and design obstructions from the head, opened
up what I could of the head and intake manifold, and am hoping for
even more zip.
I'll be very happy to get this puppy back on the road.
Thanks for any advice on re-torquing ...
Cheers,
Brian
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