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[TR] cracked TR6 diff mount - how bad does it have to be to

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] cracked TR6 diff mount - how bad does it have to be to
From: acekraut11@aol.com
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2007 17:41:09 -0500
  Brian,
 
 Check out my car on the triumphowners.com/108 web site. In the photos section 
in the third row you can find some pictures of my own fun with this type of 
repair as well as the solution that fellow lister Rick and I came up with.
 
 I wouldnt necessarily trust the outcome of your vice grips test since the car 
will certainly apply more force than you can by hand. Once you have this 
problem repaired you can take it for a drive and find out if it is your problem 
or not. That will be the only truly accurate test of the source of your clunk. 
The problem may be worse than you can tell by your test. And, not to try to 
take any business away from TRF(I certainly send quite a bit their way) but I 
had a friend make up the brackets for me from a template. I suspect that any 
metal shop can also do it easily, probably quicker and cheaper than it would 
take to order and receive the parts. I have attached a copy of the template. 
 
 My experience is that the drivers side front mount will be just fine and I 
suspect that you really dont HAVE to weld it since it doesnt receive the 
majority of the stress. If you do choose to weld that side then you will only 
be able to get the inside bracket welded in. There isnt enough room for the 
outside bracket. There is enough room to weld the passenger side mount but it 
wont be fun, especially on your back under the car. For me, Rick was a 
lifesaver, having the welding equipment and having a lift in his garage at 
home.(Thanks again Rick) Also, depending on the exhaust in your car it maybe 
impossible to weld in that space without removing it. 
 
 Incidentally, the driver side rear mount receives the next most stress so it 
would pay to check that mount very carefully also.
 
 One other thing. After re-reading your post I am unclear as to exactly where 
the crack is. It is possible that the crack you reference is on the bottom of 
the bracket, on the flat part lowest on the car then where the stud is welded 
to the crossmember above could be completely loose. On my car the crack on the 
lower portion went through from one side of the bracket to the other and the 
stud was completely free up above.
 
 Let me know if you have any questions or if parts or all of this doesnt make 
sense.
 
 Aaron
    Aaron Cropley
 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
 http://www.triumphowners.com/108
 Topsham, Maine   
 -----Original Message-----
 From: Brian_Lanoway@standardaero.com
 To: triumphs@autox.team.net
 Sent: Tue, 2 Jan 2007 12:03 PM
 Subject: [TR] cracked TR6 diff mount - how bad does it have to be to clunk?
 
  I've been chasing a mysterious clunk......   
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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name 
of Differential Mount Reinforcements Template.doc]


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