Terry, Randall, and list,
I know the head was planed level. I doubt the block was, but I spot-checked
it with a bar and a feeler gauge, and it's pretty good as well (also, that's
a lot of metal to warp out-of-plane).
The head studs aren't stretched, and the nuts go down fine. Tightening was
done in the order stated in the workshop manual, and rechecked.
It seems like this problem is really limited to 4 possibilities:
1. Out-of-plane head: Mine appears OK, and I am remembering that the shop
planed it.
2. Out-of-plane block: Mine appears OK; however, there is a bit of powder
coat on the edges of the block that I will remove before reassembly - the
culprit? Remains to be seen.
3. Excessive liner protrusion: I get 0.002 with my gauge - the WM says
.003-.005, but I have good indentions from the liners on the old head
gasket, and I had no coolant in the cylinders. I don't think this is the
problem.
4. Bad gasket and/or gasket not sealing: There are areas where the copper
gasket adhesive can't be seen on the block. Perhaps the gasket didn't
'stick' well enough?
Any others come to mind?
Thanks,
Jeff
'66 & '67 TR4A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Terry Smith
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 11:21 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Continued: Coolant leaks on new engine (TR4A)
> 3. There was a little oil in the cylinders. However, the engine is brand
> new and has run for a total of about 30 minutes so far and nothing has
> been
> set as far as carbs and timing goes, so I would think it's probable that
> the
> rings and valves haven't seated yet. I didn't really see any smoke when
> it
> was running.
Just a question, Jeff. Since this is a rebuild, did you have the head and
block checked (and decked, if necessary) at a machine shop to ensure level
smooth surface? Did you torque the head in the sequence given in the
manual? (Staggered bolts, center to sides, one-quarter or one-third
incremental torques?) And did you re-torque after running the engine to
temperature the first time?
> 4. I used copper spray sealant to help seal the head gasket. I don't see
> the sealant residue everywhere on the block - for instance, between #3
> cylinder and the lifter tube hole. While it might be possible that the
> block isn't level, that would be a LOT of metal to bend to make it so. I
> think it's more a case of the copper stuff just isn't a good sealant, or
> maybe the applicator (me) didn't do a good job spraying it.
I don't know about the copper spray sealant. I do know that others on the
list suggest Permatex Aviation Seal.
> 5. I have some powder coating that wraps around the edges of the block,
> including where the gasket sits right on the lifter side edge of the
> block.
> I will remove all block-top powder coat before reassembly.
Good idea. There was no indication where it might be leaking--either on the
gasket or on the metal--when you took the head off this time?
Terry Smith
'59 TR3A (Body still off, rest mostly done.)
New Hampshire
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