Hi Terry,
You wrote:
> Over the last few days, I replaced the points, condensor, plug wires and
> cap. Using Teri Wakemans' web site, I also converted to negative ground (
> Thank
> you Terri for the easy to folow explicit intructions). When I gapped the
> points, I also painted a white mark on the pulley near the timing point (even
>
> with the small hole) . ( dumb question, but the cylinder to the front IS the
>
> Number 1 cylinder, correct?)
The firing order is 1,3,4,2. The distributor rotor turns counterclockwise.
Check your wiring.
> My dilemna is: today, I put an inductive timing light on the car. The mark
> that I painted on is an easy 1 1/2" to 2": to the right (carb side) of the
> timing point. I did no further adjustments to the points or the distributor,
>
> figuring I should leave well enough alone for now, until I get some input
> from
> the pro's out there.
The timing is done staticly, meaning that you set the advance without the motor
running. There are two ways to do this, and depending who you talk to will tell
you differently. But basicly, either set the crankshaft at 4 deg and turn the
distributor until the points open, or, set the distributor and turn the
crankshaft (in the correct direction) and adjust the distributor to get the
points to open at 4 deg. I've been in a habit of doing both. And, lastly, road
test the car and do any fine adjustments at the distubutor adjust screw.
> The idle is a bit high, around 950, but I blame this on the state of the
> carbs. The car sat for a few years and I have already ordered the Master
> rebuild
> kit from Moss for them.
> Again, thanks in advance for your help and input.
Before rebuilding or adjusting the carbs make sure the timing is correct first.
Once you are absolutely sure it's correct then you can make any adjustments to
the carbs. If you can't adjust, or find leaks, then rebuild.
There's lots of literature on how to do this but the best advice I can give is
to start from a "known" starting point. This means that BOTH mixture adjustment
screws are set to the same spot before adjusting. Only work on one carb at a
time. And, clear out the piston chambers frequently by "reving" the engine. If
you get confused, go back to the starting point.
Adjusting the twin carbs is difficult, even for a "pro". If you error, then
error on the rich side. The best tell-tale of mixture is the spark plugs. Run
the car for a couple hundred miles, then check the plugs. They will tell you if
the mixture is too weak or rich.
Lastly, the idle speed is the last thing you set. You make an initial setting,
and adjust as you progress in the carb tuning, but it's the final setting.
John
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