10$ says the wheel bearings are just slightly loose, what you hear are the
brake pads squealing- just touching the disk lightly on turns. I usually
finger-tighten the castellated nut until the endplay is gone, and pin 'em
right there. Never had a problem, although I don't race or beat the car
too much. ( well, most of the time)
Some brake pads have an anti-squeal plate between the pad and the caliper
piston, I've also seen some kind of magic sauce that is applied to the
pad-piston junction, never used the stuff.... I actually like a bit of
squealing, as it gets the jokers out of the way a little faster. Don't
worry about your wheel bearing races spinning in the hubs, that would
make a noise you won't soon forget....... Just make sure you have
sufficient brake pad material left, the brake pedal is high and firm, and
get back to driving. No worries.
Cheers
Bob Westerdale
59 3A TS36967
John & Patricia Donnelly <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
Sent by: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
06/04/2004 02:52 PM
Please respond to John & Patricia Donnelly
To: "Triumphs List (E-mail)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
cc:
Subject: Front Wheel Bearing Squeal
My TR wheel bearings have developed a nasty habit of making squealing
noises at low speeds. Light pressure to the brakes eliminates the squeal,
as does turning corners. Once over 35 MPH the squeal goes away.
As I recall from the manual you're supposed to tighten the castellated nut
to about 10 LB then back off 1 or two flats. When I do this there seems to
be more endplay than I feel is correct. Does anybody have a endplay spec?
Also, if the bearing starts to squeal I assume that it's the race bearing
surface that's spinning on the stub axle, thus the squeal. I usually apply
a coating of bearing grease to this surface before installing the hub and
bearings. Should this be clean?
And, now that they've started squealing do they need replaced?
Thanks for your help!
John
'67 TR4A
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