> > per original or a newer one because of the gearbox? Hmm...
>
> Impossible to tell from that information, the TR4 gearbox will work with
> either starter. Makes a lot more sense to look at the starter, the
> difference is obvious. The later starter only sticks out of the engine
> about 7" and is one straight housing (except for the flange and end
plate).
> The earlier starter is about 9.5" long, and has a necked-down portion near
> the engine.
>
> I'd also double-check the solenoid and cables before changing the starter.
> One way to do this is to wire a test lamp directly at the end of the
> starter, from the terminal to a housing bolt (clean off paint if
necessary).
> Watch the lamp while you try to crank the engine ... if the problem is
> really the starter then the lamp should glow fairly brightly. If it
doesn't
> light at all, the problem is electrical and outside of the starter.
>
> Randall
Are these 2 different starters different than the 2 different starters for
the TR2-TR3A range? Or are we talking about the same 2 different starters?
Or are there 3 different starters for the TR2-TR4 range of cars?
I have the older, AKA bullet nosed, starter on my TR3A. When that stops
working, the first thing I check is to see if it's jammed into the flywheel.
The second thing is to see if the bushing at the end of the armature is
still there. The first is pretty easy because the engine won't turn over at
all, even with the fan. To check for the missing bushing, I just see if the
square end of the armiture will wiggle up and down. I don't know if this is
at all relevant to the TR4 starters, just thought it might help.
Bob
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