I also got my rear lip seal from BFE, which was made by Racetorations. It
gave the exact dimensions to grind the rear scroll to. Moss has these as well,
I
believe it's in a little side section on the page of the catalog that deals
with the internal engine.
Be careful when you do have rear scroll machined, however (if you choose to
go with the lip seal conversion); this is not a common job for most machine
shops, and I was charged $220 to have it done (plus another $250 to polish the
crank, which only had 20,000 miles on it and didn't need to be ground at all).
Many of these machine shops generally only work on American V8's and will use
that excuse to charge you through the roof for the machining of your TR crank.
Get a written and signed quote before you have the work done---the quote I was
given was less than half what I was charged, but was given the excuse that
the 'guy that quoted me' didn't communicate with the 'guy that did the work.'
If you're looking to reduce oil-leaks in your TR engine, which I assume you
are since you're considering the lip seal conversion, also consider the
silicone valve cover and oil sump gaskets. They're made by Justin Wagner
(jmwagner@greenheart.com) who you'll also find on this list, and though they're
far more
expensive than the cork seals, they're also very high quality. (I don't have
any financial interest here).
Regards,
Sean
In a message dated 12/28/2003 12:45:54 PM Pacific Standard Time,
lplott@triad.rr.com writes:
Reportedly there is a conversion kit for the rear oil seal design on the TR4
engines that doesn't leak like the matched split ring design. I've looked for
the conversion kit in the TRF, Moss and Vicki Brit catalogs but cannot find
what I think I'm looking for. I suppose that it is possible that I simply
missed it outright.
1. Can anyone point me in the right direction and is this the right way to
go?
2. Concerning the big end bolts, the existing ones had the tab plates. I
understand that these are not be the "stretch" bolts and, therefore can be
reused. What is the risk I am taking by using these again (only purchasing
new tab plates) versus new bolts or, purchasing the stretch locking bolts for
the connecting rods?
I'm about to send the engine components to the machine shop for boring and
balancing as well as the head rebuild anyway so this is the time to do it if
it's going to be done. Are there any other "must do's" that are unique to
Triumphs while I am at it? This is the first Triumph engine rebuild that I
have done. I have very much appreciated the help of the list and the
expertise that is so evident.
Regards,
Larry Plott
lplott@triad.rr.com
1967 TR4A-IRS
1960 MGA
1966 Jaguar E-Type (2+2)
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