> Reportedly there is a conversion kit for the rear oil seal design
> on the TR4 engines that doesn't leak like the matched split ring design.
I got mine at :
British Frame and Engine
4831 N. Ryland Ave
Temple City, CA 91780
626-443-0939
BFEKENG@aol.com
I'm sure TSi and the other 'performance' vendors have it as well.
> Can anyone point me in the right direction and is this the
> right way to go?
I remain somewhat unconvinced, seems like a lot of people still have trouble
with the 'updated' seal and I know the original seal can be made to work
well (but don't try to use the plastic setting mandrel sold by Moss et al).
Note that the crankshaft has to be modified for the new seal, which makes it
impossible to go back to the old one without replacing the crank.
The kit I got from BFE originally came from Racetorations, they have changed
the recommendation for the new seal journal diameter to 2.520" (which means
my crank is now ground undersize).
> 2. Concerning the big end bolts, the existing ones had the tab plates. I
> understand that these are not be the "stretch" bolts and, therefore can be
> reused. What is the risk I am taking by using these again (only
> purchasing
> new tab plates) versus new bolts or, purchasing the stretch
> locking bolts for the connecting rods?
Depends on your intended use of the engine. If it's stock, and to run at
stock speeds, then IMO reusing the rod bolts is fine (assuming they aren't
distorted from overtightening in the past). If you're going racing, or
turning much over 5000 rpm, then IMO new rod bolts are cheap insurance
relatively). For extreme usage, Loctite is preferred over the lock tabs, as
the soft metal of the tabs may pound out and allow the bolts to become
loose.
> Are there any other "must do's" that are unique to
> Triumphs while I am at it?
If you're converting to the lip rear seal, have the scroll ground off at the
same time as they grind the rest of the crank, otherwise it will be much
more expensive.
Normally, the liners are replaced rather than being bored. The extra cost
is minimal.
Be sure to get a good shop manual (reprints of the factory workshop manual
are still available new; there's also a Haynes manual available new; and of
course numerous used ones on eBay). Also check the installed liner height
on both sides (the book is not clear on this point) rather than only one
side. It's different on my engine ...
Randall
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